Naples, Italy

April 13^th

Naples, Italy

Well, we woke up to very stormy, rainy, cold weather. Yuk. We had an all day tour booked to go to the Isle of Capri, and it was still on, so we dug out our rain gear and headed out. We boarded a jetfoil for the 1 hr ride to the island. It was packed with people. I guess many people work over there. Either that or they were just crazy tourists like we were. The ride was fairly calm despite the stormy weather. We arrived at a very quaint looking harbor, although it was hard to see through the driving rain and the fog that was blocking most of the Island from view. This was not looking any better. We then boarded a bus to Anacapri, which is located on the top of the Island. This was a very narrow one way road and these Islanders really know how to drive these roads. Not a fender-bender in sight, though we came very close. We arrived at the top and walked around some of the shops. We had a very nice respite from the rain, and enjoyed an Italian lunch with heat and a view…I think. Back out into the rain for some more shopping, or at this point the free limoncello samples that the shops were giving out. Hey, anything to stay warm, right? Well, the weather was just getting worse and the guide was getting a little cranky, so we decided to pack it in an hour early. To give the guide credit, she did take a poll and everyone decided that they had enough, and really did not want to take a tour of the gardens in the mud and rain. So, downhill on the funicular tram and the boat ride back. A hot toddy and shower never looked so good. We have been very fortunate so far with the weather on port days, so this was just a little glitch. This was just a different kind of adventure. A wee bit disappointing, but an adventure none-the-less. I might still get to come back and enjoy this (I am sure) beautiful Island. Maybe the 3^rd time might really be the charm since the 1^st and 2^nd times were bust. My mom, sis, niece, and I were here in Oct. and this tour was cancelled due to weather.

So very wet…..

Messina, (Sicily) Italy

April 12^th

Messina, (Sicily) Italy

We docked about 1 hr early (10:00am) this morning which allowed us to walk into the city and explore for a few hours. We had a transfer to the village of Taormina at 1pm. Another warm sunny spring day….I was here in Oct. with my Mom, Sister, and Niece and it was raining so this was a plus. We walked to the downtown square where the astronomical clock is in the bell tower. It is an elaborate timepiece with figures that put on quite a show at noon, which we had to miss due to our tour. We walked for a few hours past churches, fountains and many Sicilians enjoying the weather. And also up and down many steep hills with fantastic views of the sea and harbor. Beautiful. Back to the ship for our transfer to Taormina which is about a 45 minute drive one way. We drove along the coast and up to the cliff-top Monte Tauro on a very curvy narrow road. Apparently this was one of Winston Churchill’s favorite vacation spots. Taormina is an ancient resort with ruins, boutiques, and restaurants located high above the Ionian Sea. The view was to die for. Warm, sunny and so clear we could see for miles. Mt Etna decided to start erupting that morning, so we had quite a sight of the mountain spewing ash high into the air. No lava, though still very impressive. We walked through the village on cobblestone streets, with shops lining both sides, and 4 different squares with fountains. Surprisingly there was hardly anyone there; except for the school children going home….it was marvelous. Of course Bruce and his mustache was the hit of all of the young school girls. I never heard so much giggling. We shopped and stopped for a bite. Bruce wanted to try the sweet cannoli’s, so we stopped for a sweet and some limoncello. Yum….I ordered what I thought was a Chardonnay wine, but it turned out to be Grappa. I did not realize there were different kinds of Grappa…..My first Grappa, yum, but very strong. It was a great way to spend a sunny afternoon overlooking the sea. I could really get used to this afternoon siesta time. Back to the ship for the sail-away at 8pm. It was so nice to enjoy a leisurely day.

Messina harbor

Mt Etna erupting

Katakolon, (Olympia) Greece

April 11^th

Katakolon, (Olympia) Greece

The small port fishing village of Katakolon is located on the west coast of Greece and is the gateway to the ancient site of Olympia, where the first Olympic Games were held. We arrived in the morning to a beautiful spring day. The drive to Olympia was about 25 miles inland and about a 1 hr drive. We drove through farmland, vineyards and olive groves. The people of Athens were correct….the “real Greece” was absolutely breathtaking. Springtime in Greece. Everything was just starting to bloom, flower, and grow. It was so very green. The birds were singing, and the fresh air was marvelous. Today made me realize how very cooped up on a ship we have been. We arrived at Olympia and it looked like a park with ruins all over the place. 2000 yrs ago athletes competed here. We saw the original stadium which held over 40,000 spectators, all standing of course. The ruins of the Temple of Zeus, and The Temple of Hera, where the Olympic flame is, still to this day, first lit and then transported by torch to the place where the games are held every 4 years. We walked all over the area just absorbing the feeling. Huge columns toppled all over the ground, and ruined temples and baths. Places carved out of the stone where gold statues were held in niches. It was fantastic. I think the warm sunny weather was a plus. The Judas trees were blooming, so amongst all of the new green growth, there were bright spots of pink flowering trees everywhere. So very peaceful, except for the occasional gas powered weed whacker that brought you back into the present day world. We were able to walk around there for 2 hrs, and it was worth every minute. Back to the village for some shopping and the real world. What a great day.

Piraeus, (Athens) Greece

April 9th and 10^th

Piraeus (Athens) Greece

Sailing north through the Mediterranean Sea to Greece we left the hot dry weather behind and entered into much cooler springtime weather. After 1 day at sea we docked in the port of Piraeus which is about 10 miles and a 30 minute drive from downtown Athens. We had an excursion booked to see the major highlights of Athens, so we were off the ship early welcoming a sunny cool day. Rain was expected later that afternoon. First stop was the Acropolis which stands 230 ft above the city and has a magnificent views of Athens. The bus takes you up about ¾ of the way and then you have to walk up a winding uneven slippery marble path the rest of the way. Luckily it wasn’t raining, because marble is very slippery when wet. It was bad enough when dry. Interestingly, in Athens, marble is cheaper to build with than wood. All of the mountains around Athens consist of white marble, so everything as far as the eye can see is built with this marble. Very beautiful and bright. We passed through the Propylea, the huge entry gate to the upper terrace. The small Temple of Athena Nike was to the right and the Parthenon to the left. Dedicated to the Goddess Athena, it was built between 470 and 432 BC. It was magnificent. They are still renovating it so there was scaffolding all around the back end of it. It was hard to put your mind in the moment when cement saws and hammering were making quite a racket around you. It was still beautiful and the views of the city were fantastic. And it wasn’t very crowded. Quite a memorable experience. We drove past Hadrian’s Arch, which was the border between the Greek and Roman cities in Ancient times. And the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which took over 700 yrs to build. Only 13 of the 104 columns survive, but they mirror the columns of the Parthenon, which is located above this site. All of these ancient sites were located fairly close to each other. It was kind of strange to see these relics surrounded by modern housing and buildings. Looking out over the city, it was kind of like looking down at green open spaces with crumbling columns surrounded by expanses of white marble. It was very hard to visualize how it could have been back in the day. We then passed the Royal Palace and Constitution Square. We did see some riot patrols, but it was Easter week and I think everyone was preparing for that and not out in the streets protesting. Greek Orthodox celebrate Easter a week later than we do, so everyone was out shopping for decorations and the whole lambs that were hanging in the markets and ready to cook on the backyard spits. We stopped at the Olympic Stadium which was built in 1896, and made completely out of marble. It was a wonderful tour and the rain held off just until we got back to the ship that afternoon. We then went to a Greek dinner and a show. Authentic food and dance. Yum……..lots of wonderful Greek wine, but passed on the Ouzo. Once again the mustache was a hit, but this time, I was included. “Are you Greek?” Bruce was asked over and over. “No” he replied. “Well, no matter, your wife is a very lucky woman” heh,heh……..Geez, will it never end? We had a fantastic day and Bruce had a Birthday he will always remember.

We had a very late night the day before and we saw most of the major sights, so we decided to sleep in and just walk around Piraeus until the ship was scheduled to leave at 4pm. It is a very busy port area with lots of shops, markets and restaurants. It was still raining so we first decided to find a pharmacy….Bruce needed some antibiotics for his ear infection….and you don’t need a prescription. After that we just walked for hours, looking at all of the open meat, fruit, seafood, vegetable markets. They were fantastic with lots of yelling and gesturing. We stopped for pastries and walked some more. We did talk to some local people who hesitantly asked if we were enjoying the city. After we reassured them that we were, they then opened up even more and said that “Athens is not the real Greece, you have to come back and go out to the Islands, go into the countryside…..now that is the real Greece.” Since all of the rioting and such, the tourism business is down at least 50% and some of the locals are hurting. Athens is huge, beautiful and friendly. I would love to come back and see “The real Greece” I am sure it is just as amazing.

AthensTemple of Zeus

Sharm el-Sheikh, Suez Canal, Egypt

April 6^th

Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt

Only a 5 hr. stop-over today, so we went on a caravan camel ride. The Bedouins have tribes all over the Sinai Desert and still follow their traditional lifestyle. They still use camels as a major form of transportation, but times have changed and ATV’s are becoming more popular. The wealth of a tribe is still measured in how many camels and children they have. After driving 45 minutes into the desert and the Bedouin camp, we (I should say I) then very nervously decided to ride a camel. It was optional, and I still was not sure about this whole process, but in the end decided to get on one for the 15 minute ride to the tents. First of all the seats are very hard and there are no stirrups to put your feet into. Once you get yourself on, the camel then gets up with his back-legs first-leaving you holding on for dear life so you don’t go over head first- and then the front legs go up. After a very precarious balancing act, you move forward. Camels are very picky about who they carry. We saw a few spit and have a fit about who got on them. After a very hot, slow, bumpy ride, the camels then go down front legs first…again almost throwing you over their heads…and then back legs down into a laying position. Whew! An experience I will never again repeat, but will always remember. We arrived at the Bedouin tents, had some tea and they showed us their traditional dances. Ok, another mustache story…..One of the local men was very intrigued with Bruce’s mustache and had to take a picture of him with his cell phone. He didn’t speak any English, but we think he said it was very Egyptian. Now, either he was taking a picture to show his friends the white “infidel” or he really did like it. After that he was Bruce’s new BFF. We should have charged him a dollar for a photo.  The desert was surrounded by the Sinai mountains, with Mt. Sinai just a three hr. drive away. They say that the “burning bush” is still there and stays green after fires have devastated the area and there in no water. Sharm el- Sheikh is located on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula on the Red Sea. It was under Israeli control up until 1982, when The Peninsula was returned to Egypt. Tourists come here for the beautiful waters and beaches. Diving, snorkeling, gambling, and high end resorts and shops are what drive the economy here. We drove through the city and it is very beautiful. Resorts, casino’s, high end shopping, beautiful beaches…I can see why people want to vacation here. Bruce would love to come back here and do some major diving. The resort areas still have major security and fences, since the car bombings a few years ago. Kind of getting used to men standing around with machine guns………

Sinai Mts.Resort

 

 

April 7^th

Suez Canal Transit

Woke up a little sore this morning….Anyway, started our transit at 6 am. We had to wait at the entrance until a convoy was arranged. Traffic in the canal is only one way so ships travelling northward sometimes must wait until traffic is cleared in the opposite direction. I did not know that….Now I understand why our Captain was so anxious to get there on time. We were scheduled to lead the convoy and he did not want to miss his window, otherwise we would have to wait until the next day. The Canal took 11 yrs. to construct and was completed in 1869. The Universal Company for the Maritime Suez Canal controlled and operated it under a 99 yr. agreement after which Egypt would then be in control. The length is 118 miles with no locks because there is no sea-level difference and no hills to climb. The average number of ships that pass through a day are about 50, with the max being 80. Each ship pays an average of $205,000. Our ship paid $250,000…..wow. The average transit time is 15 hrs., but we were through in about 8. It was way too hot to sit outside for long, so we watched from our window and the upper inside decks. Sometimes the canal was very narrow. The whole way through was just sand banks on both sides with the occasional security checkpoints every 10 miles or so….with machine guns at the ready, and about 12 small cities along the way. People do fish in the canal, so every so often the Captain had to blow the horn to warn these very small boats, in a very narrow passage to move out of the way. Sometimes they had to paddle for dear life, and were not very happy about having to move. Their hand gestures were most enlightening. A very interesting experience. Arrived at Port Said, and the Mediterranean about 4 pm.

Banks along the Suez

Safaga, Egypt

April 4^th and 5th

Safaga, Egypt

We made it across the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Aden in record time. 5 days at sea instead of the scheduled 6. We did not see anything unusual, but they were not free with the information either. Some of the passengers swear that they did see some pirates. I am sure that the onboard security crews walking the deck were tired of all the “help” they were getting. I guess scanning the sea for pirates is a good way to pass the time at sea. We had dinner with the First Engineer one night and we did ask him what the risk factor was for any chance of an encounter. He said that a cruise ship is the perfect target. Not for any kidnappings, but if pirates could secure the ship, they would be accessible to all the money and jewelry that the ship had in its safe. And all the passenger loot that they brought with them. Not what I wanted to hear, but I really was not very concerned. It is a good story though. We arrived in the port of Safaga a day early, so we signed up for the overnight excursion into Luxor and the Valley of Kings which is about a 4 hr drive from the port. We left the ship at 5 pm for the drive into Luxor. We had to drive in a convoy, so there were 3 buses and security. The sun was going down, so we really did not get to see much. Much of it was desert and reminded me of Arizona. It took us about 5 hrs due to the many check points. There seemed to be one every 10 miles, and at one point we had to wait 20 minutes for the police escort to show up. We thought it was for security reasons, but it is just a way for police to get money. The government and police are still in charge of districts and bribery is the norm. Our guide did not even think about taking off, since they would chase you down and probably jail time would be in your future. Every checkpoint had at least 10 guards with machine guns and they were not shy to point. We arrived at our hotel at about 10pm, had a very nice dinner sitting outside on the patio, and a show. It was a beautiful hotel right on the Nile River in downtown Luxor. Listed as a 5 star hotel, it was very plush. When the toilet is smarter than I was, I am convinced. A tush wash and blow dry…..just push a button. Same with the shower. Way too many buttons for me, but it was nice to get off the ship for one night. 5am wakeup call in the morning which was not a problem since we were woken up by the call to prayer at 4:15 am. Egypt is 80% Muslim and they pray 5 times a day. There are many Mosques in the city and the minarets are about 5 stories high with loud speakers about the mid-level where they speak from. They are all lit up with colored lights at night. It was kind of haunting and eerie to hear the chanting reverberating all over the city in the dark of the early morning. After a nice breakfast, and dressing for 95 degree weather, it was on to the Valley of Kings-a 45 min. drive from the hotel. Luxor is located on the Nile River, with farming the major source of income in the area. Irrigated by the Nile, most of the crops are alfalfa, wheat, and sugar cane. They were burning the cane fields while we were there, so it was very smoggy and hazy. The Valley of Kings, the city of the dead, is a series of tombs carved into the Theban Hills. It contains at least 63 tombs with the latest one found in 2006. We visited the 3 main tombs of Ramses III, Sethos I, and Amenophis II. We walked through an opening in the hillside and entered a tunnel sloping downward. The ceilings were about 25 ft high and the passage about 15 ft across. Most were about 50ft long ending in a big room where the sarcophagus was kept. The walls are covered in carvings that tell a story and the ceilings are painted. Even after 3000 yrs, the colors are still vivid in some places. It was a goose-pimple kind of amazing. We were not allowed to take any pictures at this place…we could not even take our cameras off the bus. A little disappointing but, they are trying to preserve it…..or just making money on the pictures that they have to sell. It was fantastic just thinking about walking where Pharaoh’s once walked…..next stop was Temple of Hatshepsut, both a woman and a Pharaoh. She dressed like a man and wore a false beard, due to the bias against ruling females in 1500BC. We then saw the Colossi of Memnon. Two 64 ft statues of Amenhotep III are all that remain of the temple. Back to Luxor and the Karnac Temple, and Luxor Temple which are within the city limits. Both temples are connected by a mile long avenue of human headed sphinxes that the city is just starting to renovate and uncover. The Karnac Temple entrance features 134 immense and richly decorated columns which took over 1000 yrs to build. It includes an enormous statue of Ramses II, obelisks, sanctuaries, and courts. The Luxor Temple was begun by Amenhotep and added to by other Pharaohs, including Ramses II. Every wall and column is covered in symbols and we even saw graffiti carved into some of the columns from the 1800’s. Humans always have to leave something behind, no matter what the century is. This was a terrific, hot, long, inspiring day. The history is overwhelming and interesting. At every stop the hounding venders were exhausting. The bargaining dance was more persistent here than anywhere we have been to so far. With a population of over 85 million, and over half earning just $2 a day, you can’t blame them. They were having a fuel shortage when we were there, so cars and people were lined up for miles at all of the gas stations. They couldn’t tell us why, but they seemed to have enough gas for the tourist buses…. Most of them live from day to day. It was a little different traveling through a mostly Muslim country. The women were covered from head to toe and not out in the streets. The men were everywhere, but mostly not working. According to our guide there are very few jobs, and Egypt is over-populated. The children are put to work at a young age to help feed the family and education is not a priority. Our guide was young and very proud of his heritage. He talked about the corruption in the government and always “The revolution of 25, Jan. 2011.” Very, very interesting. The upcoming elections in Egypt are soon, and I will be thinking about our young Egyptian rebel guide. He is hopeful for the future and gave us the tour of a lifetime in Luxor. More power to the younglings of Egypt. Back to the ship at 8 pm totally exhausted, mentally and physically. Another early day tomorrow.

Nile River, LuxorKarnac

Mumbai, India

March 28th and 29th

Mumbai, India

After sleeping 24 hours and coming out of my medicated haze, I felt 100% better. Yippee….2 days in Mumbai. Wait a minute, that haze I see out the window is not my foggy brain is it? Nope, good old fashioned smog. The stuff is so thick that my eyes are watering and my already compromised lungs are screaming for air. It leaves a fine film of dust on everything. Oh well, it is so hot (95) maybe I will sweat this crap out of my system yet. Until 1995, Mumbai was formerly known as Bombay. It is the capital of the Indian state of Maharashtra and has a population of more than 18 million living in 237 sq. miles. It is the largest port in western India, handling over half of the country’s passenger traffic. Mumbai is also India’s business center and one of the most commercial hubs between Singapore and Europe. It generates more than a third of India’s gross national product, and half of the country’s foreign trade moves through this port. On the other hand, it also has crippling pollution and poverty. Right next door to mansions and high-rises are depressed areas of makeshift shacks and begging children. My first impression of India….people, people everywhere, the smell, the garbage, the children, the traffic, the noise. My senses were bombarded. Just the dynamics between rich and poor were mind boggling. The men dressed in pants and white shirts, and every woman wearing a sari. Some were very beautiful, and depending on what part of the country they came from-wrapped different ways. We are docked right next to the Navel Base, so security is very strict. I have never seen so many guards with machine guns. They check everyone’s ID coming and going. Taking photos is prohibited in the area. But from the top deck of our ship we have a pretty good view of the whole area…wink,wink. Our first stop was the Gateway of India arch. It was constructed in 1911 to commemorate the visit of King George and Queen Mary, and was the site of ceremonies held for British dignitaries and others who arrived by sea. Since 50 people were killed here in 2003 by 2 car bombs, security is strict and there is a fence around it. Armed guards are patrolling pretty much everywhere you go. The beautiful, plush Taj Mahal Hotel is just across the street. After getting mobbed by the hawkers, including small crying children plucking at your pockets, (their mother pinches them for the effect) we were off to Elephanta Island for the day. The hour long boat ride was an adventure. A rickety wooden boat that spewed exhaust like crazy. At least it was covered. The workers were even trying to sell things on board. Elephanta Island is a UNESCO heritage site. About a thousand years ago, Hindu craftsmen carved columns and sculptures out of solid rock in a series of caves. We had to climb a long stairway to the top of the hill where these were located. At least there were stalls along the way to shop at. The main cave was immense and awe inspiring. Several panels depicted the Shiva in various forms. The most outstanding one was the bust of Trimurti-the three faced Shiva representing the Hindu trinity. It was pretty amazing and interesting. The other attraction on the Island are the wild monkeys- they are everywhere and they are not shy. We were warned not to bring any food or eat in front of them. Or feed them. They will attack for food. Very cool to watch though, as they scampered through the woods. Back to the ship on our little wooden boat. Too bad it was so hard to see very far because of the smog. It was a great day. My stamina was at its limit, so we decided not to go out on our own that night. Big day tomorrow.

A Day in the life of Mumbai….that is the name of our tour today. Sounds intriguing doesn’t it? Started off at the gate again. I swear the hawkers knew Bruce from his mustache from the day before and zeroed in on him. Now they were telling the other people in our group that “he bought from me yesterday at this price so I give it to you too.” Nothing like a little giggle in the morning. It was fascinating driving through the throng of cars and people. Our next stop was the Churchgate Railway Station. Unique to Bombay culture, we watched the dabba-wallas, members of the Mumbai Tiffin Box Suppliers Association get ready to deliver their clients lunches to them. Every day 4,000 of them deliver lunch boxes that they have picked up from about 175,000 office workers before they get on the train. The meals are then carried by bicycles, shoulder poles and handcarts to the recipients. Lunches are rarely, if ever lost. It’s like Domino’s but you don’t have to make the pizza. The reason for this is the trains are so tightly packed by passengers in the morning, that there is just no room to move, let alone room to carry a lunch. Our guide likened it to a “can of sardines”. Millions of people ride the trains every day. The dabba-wallas wait until mid-day to get on the trains with their loot, and less passengers and then deliver them at noon. Fascinating. We then got to board one of the trains to take us to Dhobi Ghat. Now these trains are not subway trains….they are train- trains. Open doors, open windows, open everything. There is no waiting to get off or on. The getting off part was the problem. Now some in our group were, let’s say rather slow and tend to dawdle. I was not ready to get stuck on a train in who knows where, so, I was very firm when it came to getting off. No, isn’t she just a sweetheart here…. Even the guide was rather blunt.” Get off when I say or get pushed off.” It was either that or wait till I come and fetch you at the next stop…..not what I wanted to do. We have taken many tours on this cruise and my level of irritation is coming to a max. Some of these people should not be on these tours…..but that is another very long story. On to Dhobi Ghat. It is located on the banks of the local river and tons of laundry is washed here every day. Each morning, laundry from all over Mumbai is brought here to be washed. The next day, after being air dried, it is pressed, folded, wrapped and delivered to the owners. At about 5 cents apiece. And on another note….most of the workers are men. Thousands of pieces of laundry just flying in the smog. And the sheets were as white as can be…amazing. Again, Bruce amused the local children with his mustache, or maybe it was the necklaces he was wearing around his neck that we just bought. Anyway, to all the Tsunami drummers reading this…your thoughtful contribution is being passed around the world. We stopped at the Mani Bhawan Gandhi museum where Gandhi lived between 1917 and 1934. We drove along Marine drive which is a very nice beach area, but once again nobody swims there. The locals go there for snacks and walking along the shore. And at night it is all lit up and called “The Queens Necklace”. The drive back to the ship was rather long due to traffic, but it was fascinating. We were told by the ship tour director that we would either hate India or love it. I don’t think that I can say whether I do or don’t since I really did not spend much time here. I know I did not love it, but all the people were wonderful. I did not hate it either…just the living conditions. It is a very fascinating place, but….not somewhere I will return to. We arrived at the ship and saw a new decoration…… coiled razor wire. Yep…..it was hanging all around the outer lower promenade deck, right above our deck 2 room window. This was the first time anyone has ever seen this on a cruise ship. We are going to cross the Arabian Sea, close to southern Pakistan and into the Gulf of Aden close to Somalia, so I guess it’s better to be prepared. Either that or they have much more Intel than they are telling us. I choose the former. The Captain already informed us that there will be convoys in the area to escort the smaller, slower ships. May the fair winds be at our back. On to Egypt where we will be going on a one night overland. We will be arriving in Egypt early, so this option was offered to the Valley of Kings in Luxor. Can’t wait.

Shipboard Meanderings……

Everywhere I have visited as a tourist, I have been very respectful of each countries customs. Whether it be taking off my shoes in a religious institution or covering my shoulders and knees during the day no matter how hot it is outside. The ship tour director has been very informative about what to do and wear in each country, and at every port gives us the currency exchange rates and basic language formalities. That being said, most on this ship are clueless. They still act like they are in the US, with everything it has to offer, even though we are miles away, and in a different country. The complaining is mind boggling and even though we are sailing around the world, the world is revolving around them. With the… I can do anything I want to and to heck with everyone else attitude… I just don’t get it. I know this is complicated, but I am beginning to understand much more about why some of the world really dislikes us so much. I do to, at times.

Dhobi GhatElephanta Caves

Mormugao (Goa), India

March 27^th

Mormugao (Goa), India

Well, I am down for the count. I will use the word that is socially acceptable on these ships. “Dam” Yep…since all the Holland America ships names end in ‘dam’ we use this word frequently. Dam people, dam ships, dam cold etc. There, I feel better already. Decided to skip the excursion into Goa, so Bruce went anyway. There really isn’t much at this port except beaches, mansions, temples and Basilicas. This port was a major stop along the Spice Route back in the day, and is now a prime vacation spot for a majority of the West Indians. The main attraction is the palm tree-lined beaches along the Arabian Sea. The Portuguese claimed Goa as the seat of the Catholic Church in the East in the 1500’s, and controlled the area until 1961, when India invaded to liberate it. Hence the many churches in the area. Bruce went to a market in Margoa where most of the major food shopping is done, a few churches and a hotel along the beach where he proceeded to collect shells. I am curious about everything so I was truly sorry I missed it. He said it was probably a good port to miss since we were due to leave port at 2 pm and it was a short tour. Anyway…..I sat outside in the warm weather and proceeded to sleep all morning and afternoon in a nice comfy lounge chair. On to Mumbai, India.

Mangalore, India

March 26th Day 80

Mangalore, India

After 1 day at sea we arrived in the southern port of Mangalore. It is a major port in India, exporting about 75% of its coffee and cashews. It is not a major port stop for cruise ships. There is really not much there and only about 12 cruise ships dock there a year. The city is trying to improve the area and encourage more tourist stops in the future. The climate is tropical and it was very hot, about 95. We did a “Mangalore Highlights” tour. First stop was the Kadri Manjunath temple. This was built about 1068, and is dedicated to the bronze deity Lord Shiva. It was Monday which is the day of worship here. We saw many Hindu people giving worship. With incense and fires burning, and bells ringing it was very interesting. We had to dress appropriately, which meant covered shoulders and knees, and we had to take off our shoes. We did get to keep our socks on though because the pavement was hot! On to St. Aloysius church. Inside is a series of paintings on the ceiling and walls by the Italian artist Anthony Moscheni. It is painted much like the Sistine Chapel, but on a much smaller scale. Very amazing and beautiful. Next was another Hindu Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva made of gold and marble. This was more modern, and built by a businessman for the non-Brahmins of Mangalore that were denied entry to Brahmin temples. It was fascinating to watch these people. They were teaching their little children what to do and for us we didn’t get hounded by throngs of sellers trying to ply their wares. Next we went to the cashew factory. This factory employs more than 500 workers with 95 percent being women. The company transports them to and from town and they have a free day-care center. Although the working conditions have improved, by western standards it is far from ideal. We are very fortunate. But I guess work is work, and as we toured, the women were lovely and loved to pose for pictures. Most of the manual work is in the shelling of the nuts. After they are roasted, they are cut open and extracted by a pick. They try to keep them whole since the bigger the nut the more money it brings in. The women cover their hands in coconut oil to protect them and dig in. They are paid by the kilo. The nuts are then graded and packaged. Surprisingly, there are 27 grades of cashews. Once again I will never look at a cashew nut the same way again. Back to the ship since we sail at 5pm. But alas…..I am coming down with a cold. Drat! Someone brought it back with them from their overland in China. Some passengers are dropping like flies and are very sick with upper respiratory infections. I was hoping to get a free pass, since I have been very good about eating right and taking my vitamins. My people patience level on this ship is once again tested. Early to bed tonight, since we have a tour tomorrow in Goa.

Shelling CashewsHindu Temple

Colombo, Sri Lanka

March 24^th, Day 78

Colombo, Sri Lanka

We made it across the Bay of Bengal without incident. We did have to turn our clocks back ½ hr though. I guess India time is different by ½ hr. Kind of different when trying to figure out what time it is back home. Sri Lanka is located south east of mainland India and used to be known as Ceylon. We docked in the Capital city of Colombo. Most of the population is Hindu and Buddhist. They were rebuilding the dock area, so it was very difficult to walk into town. This is a very busy seaside capital, and construction seems to be going on everywhere in the city. Exports are timber, crude rubber, machinery, textiles, tea and cinnamon. Elephants are still indigenous to Sri Lanka. There are about 6500 wild elephants in 3 herds located on the other side of the island. Tea is a major export, so we decided to take a tour to a tea plantation which was about an hour drive away. When we got on the bus the first thing the guide told us was, “if you see a truck or bus heading straight at this van, do not be alarmed. Trust me it will not hit us.” With that being said we were in for a memorable ride, and indeed it was. The streets are filled with buses, cars, mopeds, and tuk tuks (small taxi’s with just a bench seat in back) No one follows any traffic rules. The painted traffic lines are just a suggestion, so it’s everyone for himself. The noise from the car horns is deafening, but it’s kind of like “car talk” Honking the horn is an indication of what your intentions are. And everyone seems to know what they are doing. After cringing and bracing myself for a possible hit a few times, we got into the swing of things. Our driver did get a ticket though. Apparently there are places where you simply cannot cross the line. Police are stationed at these spots, and will give the motion to pull over if you violate this rule. Apparently our driver tried bribery, but it didn’t work this time. I was thinking that it could have been because he was transporting possible Americans. Anyway…on to the tea plantation. After we left the city, we entered the beautiful countryside. Palm trees, Banana trees, rice fields with lots of Water Buffalo plowing the fields. The villages we went through were very poor, with terrible living conditions. But everywhere we went they gave us a big smile and a wave. For some reason all the little children are fascinated with Bruce’s mustache. He will curl it up with his fingers, give them a big smile, and they all get a huge laugh out of it. The plantation was located in the mountains so it was a little cooler, maybe 90 or so. Miles and miles of low green bushes growing on terraced hills. They employ about 400 workers, mostly women. The picking is still manual, since they only pick the new leaves of the plant. The daily goal is to pick 20 kilos, and they get paid about $2. The average wage for an office worker in the city is about $250.00 a month. After the tea leaves are picked, they are spread out in a bin and air dried. Then by machinery, they are crushed and roasted, and sorted by color and size. The bigger the leaf the higher the price. It is then packed in bulk ready to send out to auction. A very interesting process. I will never take my tea bag for granted again. We had tea and cake at the manager’s house, and then it was back to the ship. The traffic was even worse so we took the scenic route along the beach. The railroad runs along the beach, but the ocean is mainly used for fishing. Not swimming. Sri Lanka is a beautiful country with a rich history. From the Portuguese, Dutch and British occupations, to their independence in 1948. Previous to our arrival our ship had several fundraisers to help raise money for a local orphanage. Some of the girls came on board before we set sail to have a nice dinner and sings their native songs to us. They were adorable, and they took with them a $5000. check. On to India.

Tea leaf workers

traffic surrounding a Tuk Tuk

Phuket, Thailand

March 21^st

Phuket, Thailand

We anchored in Patong Bay, which is on the west side of Phuket Island. The island is located south of mainland Thailand which is connected by a bridge. There is no port, so tender in we did. The beachfront town of Patong is crowded with tourists. They have a beautiful white sand beach, but we could barely see any of it through all of the lounge chairs, umbrellas, water sport stalls, food stalls, and anything you can think of stalls lined up on the sand. This is Phuket’s most famous and developed beach, and most of the major hotel chains were represented. Even off the beach, all I could see were bars, restaurants, and stall after stall selling junk. More than 3 million tourists spend their annual holiday here. We were on an all day tour so we did not have a chance to walk through it. I don’t think I wanted to anyway. I am sure this was not a very good first impression of Thailand. We drove to Phuket town which is about 12 miles east of Patong and took about a half hour. The roads are very good here and easy to navigate, but the traffic is heavy at times. We had to drive across the island which took us upland and then down into Phuket town. It was very pretty, with great views of the other beaches. Phuket town is bustling with locals and tourists who live there. It has almost totally recovered from the tsunami of 2004. It even has a ‘western’ section, where stores and shops sell all things western, such as food and clothes. This was something that I never thought of before, but we have certain parts in our US cities named after the majority of the people living in that area, such as Chinatown…why not Westerntown, this was a first for me. Thailand is a Buddhist nation and once a part of the Kingdom of Siam in the 13^th century. Our major stop was the Siam Elephant Safari. It is an ongoing conservation, and protection project for the Thai elephants. Unlike most ship tours, almost the entire excursion fee was going to the camp. We learned about the lifecycle, and the history of the elephants of Thailand. There were some babies, but most were older and wiser. Unlike a zoo where they are confined, this was much like a retirement home for elephants. Instead of killing them they are free to roam the many acres of the camp and give the tourists a ride. This was well regulated. The animals were never prodded, hurt, or under any stress. They chose their own way on the path and they did. Sometimes going into the bushes with all aboard. All of the workers respect these magnificent creatures, and were proud to show what they are doing to protect them. The ride was pretty bumpy and slow, but very peaceful once we got into the rhythm of the movements. I never thought I would ever do something like that, but I am glad I did. It was an amazing experience. We went through a rubber tree plantation, and saw how latex was harvested. Much like sap for maple syrup, but this was snow white and very thick. Did you know that the best quality latex is used for the manufacture of condoms? Well, we were told that fact with a little giggle. We watched how rice was harvested, and how they make their version of curry. Everyone has their own concoction, and personal tastes. Much like our many different versions of spaghetti sauce, but oh so spicy….yum. First time I have ever seen a turmeric root or a bergamot leaf. Sadly the ship was calling and we had to get back on board. I wish I could have spent more time here. The people are friendly, and what little of the island we saw was beautiful. Exploring Thailand away from the throngs of tourists would be ideal, but maybe very primitive. I am sure that there are very nice beaches to snorkel and dive in without the uncontrolled development in some areas. Looking beneath the sunning bodies on the beach this is a very lovely place. And by the way…. A massage on the beach is only $10 for 50 minutes. How can you beat that……on to Sri Lanka.

Shipboard Meanderings…….

The ship is sailing across the Bay of Bengal, round the southern point of India, north up the coast, across the Indian Ocean into the Gulf of Aden and the Red Sea to Egypt. This means pirates. As passengers we have already been instructed on what to do in case of an attack. Mostly, just stay away from any windows and open decks and sit down in case the captain has to do a quick maneuver. I was wondering if we were going to have to do anything or if the ship had to prepare. I know that the possibility of attacking a cruise ship is low, but there is always a first for everything and I am glad they are being cautious. First of all we were told that we are going to speed up through these areas. Almost full speed and we have a high freeboard. Because of the speed we will be arriving in Egypt early. We are being tracked by the coalition forces and warships are in the vicinity. I have already seen a few. All of the open decks have extra security walking around 24/7, with binoc’s during the day and night vision devices at night. And all of the lower deck fire hoses are charged and ready. There are also 2 manned long range acoustic devices rigged and ready to go. The only thing I haven’t seen are guns, but I am sure they are around. It will be an interesting week or two.

Patong beachelephant ride

Singapore

March 18^th and 19^th

Singapore

2 full days in Singapore. Hot, humid and overcast. Singapore is very strict. We had to keep our passports with us at all times, and they were checked every time we got off the ship and returned. This is the first time I have seen my passport since we left in Jan. On this cruise the ship takes care of storing, and keeping track of all the visas, stamps, and your passport. We were not allowed to take off any chewing gum, (it is legal to chew it, but illegal to sell or buy it) chewing tobacco, imitation tobacco products, controlled drugs or psychotropic substances, the usual fire arms, obscene articles or videos, and any reproduction of copyrighted materials. Offenders are subject to a huge fine or jail. Jaywalking is not allowed or littering. Dropping a tissue, or spitting is grounds for a huge fine, and if you get caught with illegal drugs, the death penalty it is. Now with that said we did get off the ship. Singapore is the cleanest city I have ever been in. It has strict pro-environmental initiatives and the maintenance of its green spaces, which are many. It is only about 700 sq. kilometers, about 3 times the size of Washington DC, with a population of about 8 million. About 80% live in government housing which means they live in a 1 room condo which costs about $500,000. The government loans them the money at about 2%. You are not allowed to own a house if you are not married, or until you turn 35. It is the 22^nd richest country in the world with the highest standard of living in Asia. Owning a car is by permit only, and controlled by the government. To own and operate a car will cost about $100,000. The permit is $60,000 and that is for the smallest size car. If you want to buy a larger car it is more. This is a way to keep the traffic congestion at a minimum. The birthrate is small, 1.01 child per family. So the government is encouraging families to propagate by giving them $10,000 per child. But on the other hand, since land is scarce, cremation is encouraged. If you prefer to be buried, it is very expensive. You are interred for 15 yrs. in a plot by yourself. When that time is up, you are placed with 2 other people for another 15 yrs. Then when that is up, you are very close neighbors with 8 other people for another 15 yrs. Kind of creepy, but I did see internment shops in the city. Petroleum is the major export. Singapore is one of the major shipping ports in the world. Miles and miles of containers stored on the ports and container ships anchored in the bay. Over 150,000 container ships come and go per year. Most everyone speaks English and uses public transportation which is very safe and easy to use. Once we figured it out we rode the subway all over the city. First we took a tour to the top of Mt. Faber for a panoramic view of the city. Very nice but a little hazy. It was about 97 degrees with as much humidity. The buildings are very modern, and built with Fung Shui in mind. Some of the best and different architecture I have ever seen. I felt like I was in the “Jetsons”. Then a tour through the biggest orchid garden in the world, 60,000 plants and all very beautiful. A stop to see the Merlion- lion head with a mermaid body-the new symbol of Singapore since 1972. Then a walk through China town. After the tour, we headed out on our own to the downtown area. First stop, the world famous Raffles Hotel. This is where the Singapore Sling was invented. So, to the Long Bar it was. After a $26 sling each…..yep, this is not a typo. Another first…Singapore is the most expensive city I have ever been to. Even though the Singapore dollar is worth just a little bit less than $US, the prices are astronomical. Just to use a phrase that is fitting to this city. So, we sipped our drink since a huge thunderstorm was drowning the city and decided to wait for it to pass. After the refreshing deluge, both in the bar and out, it had cooled down immensely. We decided to walk down to the waterfront and ride the elevator to the top of the Sands Hotel and Casino. 56 floors up, and 40 dollars later…yep, not much is free here… we were on top of the highest structure in the city overlooking a hazy sunset. It was worth every penny. Whoops, I meant quarter. This hotel is breathtaking. It consists of three separate buildings with a structure that looks like the body of an airplane spanning across the top of all three. There is a viewing deck (which we were only allowed on), restaurants, and all of the pool area’s that are for hotel guests only. We were not allowed to even get close to the pool areas. There was security all over the place, so sneaking in was not an option. And I really did not want to spend the night in jail…or longer. This is one of only a few casinos in Singapore and they bring in as much money as Las Vegas. Tourists spend big money here. You need to have your passport to get into the gaming area. If you are a native resident, you have to pay $100 to get in. The tourists get in free. The government discourages gambling, but the $100 is said to go to charity. After a full day, and almost night (we didn’t get back to the ship until 11pm, which is the latest we have stayed out anywhere) we were exhausted. We only had a few hours the next day, so we took the subway into Chinatown. It was hotter than yesterday, so we walked, and shopped, and stopped for lunch. We were pretty used to the heat by now, but even after drinking gallons of water, it just wears you down. Very few stores have AC, except for the malls, which we tried to avoid. I can do that at home, and pay cheaper prices. Back onboard at 4pm. I don’t know if I would ever come back here. Everything is beautiful, there is so much to see and do, the people are lovely, and it is safe and tranquil. So why?….there is just this underlying feeling of sterility. The people are lovely, but they act like robots. Maybe it’s the government’s fixation on cleanliness and order. Maybe it was just me, but it felt kind of like cavorting with the Eloi’s in The Time Machine. I just kept waiting for that horn to blow. When we were in Chinatown, the proprietor of her shop whispered in Bruce’s ear “we’re watching you” but maybe it was the mustache again…….just kind of strange is all. Maybe I have been at sea too long. Next stop…Thailand.

Sands Hotel and Casinoorchids

Phu My, Vietnam

March 15^th….day 69

Phu My, Vietnam

We docked at the port of Phu My which is the gateway to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) which is a 70 mile drive to the city. The port is mostly industrial, so an excursion into the city it was. The weather is expected to reach 100 with humidity to match. Yikes! Packing water is a must today. Saigon is home to over 9 million people and most of them drive motor scooters. So the streets are jammed with them. There are about 21,500 people living per square kilometer so most of the living conditions are not very good. Everyone wants to live on a major street so they can set up a shop in front and live either above or behind the store. The government wanted to stop this, but for most of these people this is their only way to make money. Jobs are scarce and hard to come by. With the traffic and poor road conditions it took us about 2 hrs to drive one way. We drove through rice fields and rubber plantations. Saigon is the largest city in Vietnam located on the Saigon River. It is busy, and the smog and heat were intense. We visited a history museum which had artifacts illustrating the cultures from the Bronze Age to modern day. We enjoyed a water puppet show and went to a lacquer ware workshop which is exported all over the world. It was very beautiful and we did buy some panels. The most moving place we went to was the Reunification Hall Museum. Formerly known as the Presidential Palace, this was made famous when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the front gates, signaling the end of the Vietnam War. We toured through the underground halls and much of the American telecommunication equipment is still there. The preserved pictures and war maps lining the walls say it all. Our tour guide was young, only about 7 yrs old when the war ended. His Father worked for the US military during the war. He now wants to become a policeman, but the communist government researches the family back at least 3 generations. So, because of the US connection, or unless he has a huge bribe, he or his sons will not work in any government job. The Vietnamese people are only allowed to have 2 children and if a government official has more, they are fired. I don’t see how this could be enforced for the general public, since most of the families live together under one roof. This was from a Vietnamese perspective but believable. The history is incredible, and the people resourceful. And believe it or not, everywhere we went we were watched, to a point. Government security was everywhere. They want the tourists to come back, spend money and have a good experience. 2 days at sea, a St. Patrick’s Day party, and on to Singapore.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

March 14^th…..68 days at sea.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

Back in the tropics. Temp. 85 and the humidity to match. I never in my wildest dreams thought I would be writing about, let alone visit Vietnam. We have 2 ports of call here, Nha Trang and Phu My. Nha Trang is the capital of Khanh Hoa Province, Vietnam. It is located in the southern part of Vietnam. Up until a few years ago it was a small sleepy fishing village. Now, recent government and private investors are transforming it into a beachside resort area, which is a very popular vacation destination for international tourists and the Vietnamese. We saw several high end hotel chains under construction. The beach promenade is beautiful and the water is warm. Bruce and I walked along the beach and found tons of sea glass. The beaches reminded me of Hawaii, where the surf breaks right on the shore, and the sand is very course. We were docked about a 30 minute drive from the city so we booked a city tour. We went to the 7^th century built Cham Po Nagar complex where Hindus worshiped for more than 500 years. Only 4 spires remain, but the Buddhist community still arrives to pay their respects. We had to remove our shoes and cover our shoulders and knees. Instead of candles, they light incense and the smell is everywhere. It was perched on top of a hill, so the views of the city were very nice. Fishing boats and beaches as far as the eye can see. Next stop was the Lon Son Pagoda which is marked by a 78 ft. tall white Buddha sitting on a lotus blossom, which can be seen all over the city. The Pagoda has been rebuilt several times and the glass and ceramic tile decorations are beautiful. The Pagoda is still home to 8 practicing monks and pays tribute to the lives and tragic deaths of the fellow monks who dramatically burned themselves in Saigon protesting the Vietnam War. We walked the 152 steps to the top to see the Buddha. They are in the process of erecting statues surrounding the Buddha of all the monks that died. We then paid our own tribute by lighting incense, giving a silent prayer and personal wish, and sticking it into a pot of sand in front of the Buddha. It was very beautiful and moving. Vietnam is known for its beautiful embroidery. We visited a factory where everything is handmade. It is exquisite. You can tell an exceptional piece by the back. It must look just like the front, and it does. Young girls sit for hours turning out this wonderful artwork. The conditions seemed nice, but this is a communist country and I was ever curious if these were the real working conditions or just for show. I chose the latter. No eye contact or interaction was ever made and there was always someone watching. As always, there were the usual hawkers and vendors. Here, they were all women, and we all know how persistent they can be, but not so much in your face. One US dollar is worth 20,000 Vietnamese dong. A huge number to me, but it’s all in perspective. The money has been devalued so much that they don’t deal in any coins. The currency is all paper money with the highest note being 500,000. We kept a 10,000 one for Kai which is only worth 50 US cents . Imagine.

Hong Kong

March 11^th and 12th

Hong Kong, Special Administrative Region People’s Republic of China (officially)

2 days in Hong Kong. We arrived in cold, foggy, rainy weather so it was hard to see the magnificent skyline. Hong Kong is divided into 3 regions. Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, and the New Territories. We docked in Kowloon, which provided us with a magnificent view of the downtown Hong Kong business district. There were tall skyscrapers as far as the eye could see, and apartment buildings that must house thousands. The whole territory covers 424 sq miles and is home to almost 8 million people. So, of course, property is at a premium. You can feel the energy with huge neon advertising signs, lights, and more lights. It is busy, the traffic is horrendous, and there are people everywhere. After 4 days at sea I was ready to experience the city of Hong Kong. We had a tour booked to see the city highlights. We figured it would be best to get our bearings before we ventured out on our own. We went up to Victoria Peak which is the tallest hill in the city (about 1300ft) and has panoramic views. Well, we took their word for it, since it was totally fogged in and we couldn’t see a darn thing. Oh well. The Sampan ride was fun in Aberdeen, and we stopped for shopping in Stanley Market. Back to the pier, and since it was Sunday, time to find some Dim Sum. Yummy and good. Kowloon is the main tourist district, so we put on our walking shoes and headed out. We walked for miles until dark. Hong Kong has a fantastic public transportation system. The buses, trains, and cabs are easy to use and cheap, but we needed to walk. I have never seen so many huge high end stores in my life. Square blocks dedicated to Prada, Hermes, Coach, etc. A Rolex and Tiffany’s on every corner….yes indeed. People are in line very early in the morning waiting for these stores to open. The bargain shopping for designer wear is a thing of the past here. Same with the electronics. You have to know your prices and be very careful of what you are buying. The prices might be a little more inexpensive than in the States, but sometimes not. After a quick ‘look see’ we were on a mission to find the knock-offs. Hey, this is China, and the street markets are blocks long and you can buy fake anything and everything. And it’s not imported. The US dollar is equal to about 7 HK dollars, so off we went to find a deal. We felt kind of flush having $1400HK in our pockets. Which is about $200US. Bargaining is still the norm, but we didn’t buy much. Lots of junk, but it was fun. And the prices were cheap. We wandered around until dark, getting lost in small alleys and side streets. When the street signs stop printing words in English you know you are off the beaten path. We felt very safe and were never approached by anyone. Very interesting, actually. I think that they were mostly wondering why we were there. After finally finding the main street we were exhausted. So back to the ship to enjoy a glass of wine out of the rain, warm our tootsies, and watch the laser light show that happens every night at 8 pm. All of the skyscrapers along the waterline have neon lights and colored lasers that put on a synchronized show for about 15 minutes every night…..very cool even if it was a little foggy. Up early the next morning to find some free Wi-Fi. Thanks to the Sheraton Hotel and a delicious cappuccino, we made phone calls and caught up on e-mails. We have to be back on board by 4 pm so we only had a few hours to explore some more. It was still cold, but not raining, so that was a plus. We walked for miles again. This time checking out parks and statues. We still did a little shopping but mainly just wandered the city. Hong Kong is amazing, interesting, and I loved it here. I could easily spend a couple of weeks in and around the area, including Beijing and The Great Wall. You would have to fly there though. It is easy to get around, very little crime, and most everyone speaks English. Next stop, Viet Nam.

One of the main shopping streetsapartments along the harbor

Lombok Indonesia

March 6^th

Lombok, Indonesia

This is the first time that we have a back-to-back port. Getting up early 2 days in a row…unthinkable. Seriously, though, we had a 4 hour excursion booked, that turned out to be more than 7 hrs. due to tender problems and being anchored so far from the dock. About a 45 minute tender ride one way and one of the tenders decided to get cranky and have engine problems. Just one more time that we are grateful to have a ship excursion…..we always know we will get back on time. Even if it is late. One thing that I have noticed on this World Cruise…there is much more leeway on getting back and waiting for late comers. This is a fairly new port of call. Usually they go to Bali, which is only an island away, but Lombok is the new upcoming port of call. They are embracing tourism and improving the Island. It is very primitive, interesting, and very poor. This was my first encounter with the lack of ‘Western’ facilities…very interesting. Not wearing underwear would make it much easier. The almost 3 million inhabitants are very lovely, but bargaining to buy is the rule here. Once you step off the bus, or anywhere you go, they are after you….and once you get past the intimidation, it is almost a game. They expect it. Very different from Western ways, but magical in the exchange. You have to have interaction whether you like it or not. There is no ‘personal space’ here. This was a new experience for us on this level but Bruce was getting into the groove. He is the shopper in the family, and he did well…..he was even corrected by the locals on the procedure…first you make an offer and then they do and somewhere you meet in the middle. Quite a long dance. Indonesian pearls were the great buy here. The island is mostly agriculture with rice being the main crop. We saw many fields and drying areas. It was very beautiful, green, and tropical. We visited a Hindu temple where we had to wear a yellow sash for respect and give an offering. There are families that can stay out in the open on platforms for a week at a time, praying and meditating for the prosperity of the family. Holland America employs many people from this area, so there were family reunions and visitors coming on the ship. Jobs are very scarce and hard to come by. The average daily wage is about 5 US dollars a day, so many families on the Island are benefiting from the employment of the cruise line. The full time jobs, such as police officers or government work are still obtained by bribery. Anyone can set up a roadside stand, selling anything from bottles of gasoline (for the tons of motor scooters on the road) to food and drink. And they are on every block. People just trying to get by and make a living. Some of the living conditions that we saw were very horrific. In the last few years, the education system has improved. All of the children go to private schools, paid by the government, and education is taken seriously. English is taught to all as a second language. If they test well they can go on to university, and if they don’t they go into a trade. Investing in education means a better environment for everyone. They hope in a few years that you just can’t hang a sign out the door and say that you are a qualified Dr. or Dentist. These are very resourceful, happy people. Every time we passed a school, all of the kids on the playground waved to us. In fact, everywhere we went we were given a great big smile and a wave. In a few years this might be the next Bali; it is a very beautiful place.

Shipboard Meanderings.

We are 4 days at sea and on our way to Hong Kong. We will sail through the Java Sea and then into the South China Sea where we will dock in Kowloon. This on the mainland side of Hong Kong, with the Island side just a short ferry ride away.

We crossed back over the Equator into the Northern Hemisphere, so we are no longer polliwogs. We can now say that we are officially ‘Shellbacks’. The ship threw a King Neptune party and we had the official sacrifices to the king. (The newly initiated crew members were either given pardon by the captain or covered in colored whipped cream and thrown into the ocean “pool”) Yes, the pool had to be drained and cleaned afterward. A little silly, but quite fun, and all of the sacrifices were volunteers. I was sad to leave the southern hemisphere and the weather. We are back into springtime with the corresponding weather. Cool and rainy. Oh well, we will soon be in India, where, I have heard it is in the 100s. Yikes!

Sometimes I feel so far away from the US and the news of the day. We just get little snips now and then, but maybe that’s a good thing. From what I have heard so far, it’s really quite silly. Maybe my perspective is changing about things that are really important. I have not seen gas prices below 9 US dollars a gallon…anywhere, with some countries as much as 11. This is the norm for them. I know that a lot of politics are involved, but as an American, I realize how fortunate I am to live where I do, enjoy the benefits, and have choices. At 56, I am still growing up, but my ‘bubble has popped’ and I really have nothing to complain about. I am grateful.

rice fieldshopping at the ‘Lombok Typical Art shop’.

Komodo Island

March 5^th

Komodo Island, Indonesia

Just a 5 hour stop on this Island today. Komodo Island is one of the 17,508 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia. Tourists primarily stop here to see the dragons. It has only one human settlement on Slawi Bay. It is very primitive and fresh water is scarce, and collected during monsoon season. The population is primarily Muslim. The Island is beautiful… green and tropical. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO heritage site and known for its Komodo Dragons, which pretty much roam around where they want to. We were escorted through the park by a guide and 2 rangers which were equipped with forked sticks to ward off any aggressive animals. These animals are protected so they are not allowed to harm them. I was hoping that a gun would be close by, but I guess all they have to do is poke them in the nose and eyes and they back off. Yea…right. They are not fenced in and can roam freely. They are huge, and they eat the wild deer and pigs, bones and all, that roam the island. They are not afraid to attack humans, and their saliva is packed with venom and bacteria. So enough said….. We were warned before we got off the ship that these things are very dangerous. We were told to stay with the rangers, do not wander off, and stay in a group. They can smell blood and meat from miles away so women having their ‘monthlies’ were strongly urged not to go off the ship. We were not to take any food, or snacks with us. Just water. And because it was so dangerous, you could not get off the ship at all unless you had an escorted excursion booked. The trail through the park was about a mile long. It was like walking through a jungle. Trees, vines, and huge plants. It was hot, steamy, and there was absolutely no breeze. My glasses kept fogging up due to the hot steamy air. First time that has ever happened to me. It was so quiet that you could hear almost everything. Birds, water, and creepy things that you know are out there but can’t see…..not that I was a little on edge anyway. We were on a safari to find these dragons. That’s what it felt like anyway. Even though we were hot and pouring with sweat, it was wonderful. And find them we did, or they found us…..and yes, they did get a little aggressive and had to be poked. I was a little more than nervous. When you see a huge lizard walking toward you with its tongue flicking, you know that it’s checking you out. Now, some people in our group just had to have a picture ‘with’ the dragon in the background. So they would squat down, turn their backs to them and snap away…..just what I want to do, act like prey on their level. Some people just don’t get it, and I just don’t get them. This was definitely not a zoo, and maybe I was over-reacting, but this was pretty primitive. I did not want to see the theory of ‘natural selection’ enacted here, but it could easily have been, and well deserved. I would take the word of a ranger over a fellow passenger (I mean idiot), any day….. I was totally content to stay well away from the action. But the rangers did their job, held them at bay, and everyone got the photo of the day. We were not guaranteed a sighting when we booked the trip, so this was pretty awesome. After our trek, the very friendly villagers were selling local crafts so we bought a few trinkets. It was an amazing day and a Birthday I will always remember…on to Lembar, Lombok, Indonesia.

Sydney and Cairns

February 25^th and 26^th

Sydney, Australia

At last. We made it across the Pacific. It took about 19 days and the last few have been warm, calm and relaxing. Caught up on reading and various shipboard classes. Had an early wake up call to go out on the bow of the ship and watch as we sailed into one of the most magnificent harbors in the world. And it was…a beautiful Saturday sunrise, and lots of sailboats, and fishing vessels just getting ready to go out for the day. Looking forward to a warm sunny day. It took about an hour to sail in from the sea to the dock. We passed the Opera House, and sailed under the Sydney Harbor Bridge. A very ‘pinch me, am I really seeing this with my own eyes’ kind of moment. It looked just like the postcards and pictures. We docked in Darling Harbor about 8am and we were off the ship at 9, after an extensive debarking search which included a very thorough sniff by drug dogs. Customs even came on board and did random drug searches of staterooms. With the median age of 78, I shudder to think of what they might find. Anyway, I did not hear of anyone having to go to jail. We were not able to dock at Circular Quay, darn it. This is the dock right next to the opera house. It was already occupied. Darling Harbor, where we docked, is just on the other side and only about a 5 minute drive. The ship provided a free shuttle service to the downtown area, which was nice. I didn’t realize downtown Sydney had so many hilly streets. It would have been about a ½ hr walk hoofing it up and down streets in the industrial district. The population of Sydney is around 5 million and it is huge. After virtually seeing nothing but sea water for the last couple of weeks, it was also kind of a culture shock. Planes, trains, cars, and tons of people. The first time I saw children playing and a hearing a baby cry, made me realize just how isolated and remote we have been. Our first and only tour that we booked was to the Koala Park. Yes, we saw koalas, kangaroo’s, dingoes and almost any Australian animal and bird that there is. We saw green spaces that they have kept natural. I kept smelling a certain scent and realized that it was eucalyptus…it is everywhere. And very strong. The heat and humidity enhanced every smell. Then we caught the ferry and rode that all the way back to the dock. A very nice way to see the outskirts of Sydney, and all of the huge houses built along the shores. Got back around 4pm, so we went to ‘The Rocks’ area. This historic district is in the main downtown harbor area. There is shopping, restaurants, and of course the Sydney Opera House. Very cool. It also has many old buildings and museums. We walked and shopped. Sydney is very, very, expensive. Our dollar is almost equal to the Aussie dollar but things cost almost 4 times as much. Bruce and I had dinner along the harbor….2 small fish and chips and 1 drink each, 65 dollars…. Yikes! Guess we are going to have to hit the ATM before shopping tomorrow. They do not accept US dollars. The next day we took the shuttle downtown and shopped at the Sunday market. Lots of interesting things that were handmade. Bought a necklace that was just the insides of a Swiss watch with an Australian opal and tiny little rubies attached to the workings. Very different….Happy Birthday to me. Tried to figure out how to post pictures on the blog using the free Wi-Fi areas…..still having trouble and after an hour we were too frustrated to try anymore. I will get some posted, although they might be all at once. Anyway, we had a drink at the oldest bar in town and walked around until we had to be back on board at 3pm. I could spend at least a week here and probably not see everything that Sydney has to offer. It is an amazing city. Would love to come back to Australia and spend at least a couple of months. Too much to see and not enough time. 2 days sailing north along the coast. Next stop Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef.

February 29^th----Leap Day

Cairns, Australia.

After 2 days of sailing in hot, humid, and sometimes rainy weather we docked in Cairns at 7 am. It is the rainy season here and this part of Northern Australia just had major flooding in Queensland. I can see why. When it rains here it really pours. Along with the Great Barrier Reef, this area has many rain forests. It is green and tropical. We had an 8 hr excursion to the Reef. It was either the rain forest or the reef….not even a question…the reef, definitely. We boarded a ferry which took us out to the platforms that are set up as docks out on the reef. Every company has their own dock. It took us about 1 ½ hrs to get there. Pretty bumpy going over, which made about 10 people very seasick. We were fine, thank goodness. The Captain and his wife joined our excursion, so I knew that we would get back to the ship on time. Bruce had a 1 tank dive scheduled and I was going to snorkel. They provided all the equipment and gear. Even the full body sun-suit which even had hand coverings to protect your fingers from getting bit by the fish. Now I didn’t have to worry about how long I could stay in the water without having to put sunscreen on over and over. I think that they provide these so you don’t have to use as much sunscreen which, I am sure, is a contamination issue to the coral and fish. And the sun was intense. In the water we went…..it was like being in a salt water aquarium, and just as warm. About 87 degrees and crystal clear. There were dozens of species of coral, tropical fish, squid, turtles, and some sharks, though I didn’t see any of those. I was speechless. And no, it wasn’t because my mouth was plugged with the snorkel. It was just like the postcards and pictures. The tropical colors were amazing. Blues, greens, reds, and yellows, even purple coral….so very vivid it is hard to describe. I did not want to get out of the water but fatigue finally set in. Bruce’s dive lasted about an hour and he saw many more things since the divers could go out farther. He loved it. After lunch and a rest it was time to go back in the water for another incredible hour or so. They also had a glass bottom boat for the people that did not, or could not get in the water. We did go out on that later. You could not see as much, but it was just as wonderful. I did not want to leave, but back to the ship we had to go. We were leaving that night and I guess we did have to get the Captain back so he could sail us away. We really do have a very cool Captain. He has been a Captain with Holland America for years, but this is his first World Cruise as a captain, and he gets excited at new ports just like the rest of us. I still can’t believe that we swam in the Barrier reef. It was a dream come true, and by far one of the best things that we have experienced. We were not scheduled to leave until 3 am the next morning due to the tides. We were docked in very shallow water so we had to wait for high tide before we could leave. Bruce and I were going to go into town after dinner, but I was exhausted and it was literally pouring water outside and getting dark. Bruce went anyway just to check out the city, but most everything was closed for the night except Wooly’s---we know it as Woolworth’s. Australian wine and batteries, yes indeed. At least we can bring wine, beer, and soda back on board with us. On to Komodo Island, Indonesia.

Shipboard Meanderings………..

We have 4 days at sea before we get to Indonesia. We will sail through the north part of the Barrier Reef for 2 days, go around the tip of Australia, with New Guinea to the north and then head west. The reef covers over 1000 square miles, and the ship is required by law to have a reef pilot on board the whole time we are in the area. There are channels and very shallow areas that have to be maneuvered around. As a matter of fact we have already sailed by many shipwrecks that have been caught on the reefs. The pilot guides the ship and makes sure that it is not expelling anything that might contaminate the environment. We had to sail 25 miles out of the reef zone to dump all of the treated ‘gray water’ that was on board into the ocean and then go back in. We have been at sea 56 days, and have sailed 19554 nautical miles. We turn the clocks back another hour tonight, so we will be 7 hrs behind PST but 1 day ahead…I think. This is confusing since we crossed the date line. I really don’t even know what day it is anymore. Only port dates. And believe it or not sea days actually go by pretty fast. About 300 people left the ship in Sydney and only about 100 came on board for the next segment. So there is a total of about 1000 onboard now. I think as the cruise progresses more will be leaving at various ports. On the next blog I will write about the shipboard people dynamics….it’s a virtual ‘ Peyton Place’ around here sometimes……

Hanging out with Wally in the Great Barrier Reef