Colombo, Sri Lanka

March 24^th, Day 78

Colombo, Sri Lanka

We made it across the Bay of Bengal without incident. We did have to turn our clocks back ½ hr though. I guess India time is different by ½ hr. Kind of different when trying to figure out what time it is back home. Sri Lanka is located south east of mainland India and used to be known as Ceylon. We docked in the Capital city of Colombo. Most of the population is Hindu and Buddhist. They were rebuilding the dock area, so it was very difficult to walk into town. This is a very busy seaside capital, and construction seems to be going on everywhere in the city. Exports are timber, crude rubber, machinery, textiles, tea and cinnamon. Elephants are still indigenous to Sri Lanka. There are about 6500 wild elephants in 3 herds located on the other side of the island. Tea is a major export, so we decided to take a tour to a tea plantation which was about an hour drive away. When we got on the bus the first thing the guide told us was, “if you see a truck or bus heading straight at this van, do not be alarmed. Trust me it will not hit us.” With that being said we were in for a memorable ride, and indeed it was. The streets are filled with buses, cars, mopeds, and tuk tuks (small taxi’s with just a bench seat in back) No one follows any traffic rules. The painted traffic lines are just a suggestion, so it’s everyone for himself. The noise from the car horns is deafening, but it’s kind of like “car talk” Honking the horn is an indication of what your intentions are. And everyone seems to know what they are doing. After cringing and bracing myself for a possible hit a few times, we got into the swing of things. Our driver did get a ticket though. Apparently there are places where you simply cannot cross the line. Police are stationed at these spots, and will give the motion to pull over if you violate this rule. Apparently our driver tried bribery, but it didn’t work this time. I was thinking that it could have been because he was transporting possible Americans. Anyway…on to the tea plantation. After we left the city, we entered the beautiful countryside. Palm trees, Banana trees, rice fields with lots of Water Buffalo plowing the fields. The villages we went through were very poor, with terrible living conditions. But everywhere we went they gave us a big smile and a wave. For some reason all the little children are fascinated with Bruce’s mustache. He will curl it up with his fingers, give them a big smile, and they all get a huge laugh out of it. The plantation was located in the mountains so it was a little cooler, maybe 90 or so. Miles and miles of low green bushes growing on terraced hills. They employ about 400 workers, mostly women. The picking is still manual, since they only pick the new leaves of the plant. The daily goal is to pick 20 kilos, and they get paid about $2. The average wage for an office worker in the city is about $250.00 a month. After the tea leaves are picked, they are spread out in a bin and air dried. Then by machinery, they are crushed and roasted, and sorted by color and size. The bigger the leaf the higher the price. It is then packed in bulk ready to send out to auction. A very interesting process. I will never take my tea bag for granted again. We had tea and cake at the manager’s house, and then it was back to the ship. The traffic was even worse so we took the scenic route along the beach. The railroad runs along the beach, but the ocean is mainly used for fishing. Not swimming. Sri Lanka is a beautiful country with a rich history. From the Portuguese, Dutch and British occupations, to their independence in 1948. Previous to our arrival our ship had several fundraisers to help raise money for a local orphanage. Some of the girls came on board before we set sail to have a nice dinner and sings their native songs to us. They were adorable, and they took with them a $5000. check. On to India.

Tea leaf workers

traffic surrounding a Tuk Tuk

Phuket, Thailand

March 21^st

Phuket, Thailand

We anchored in Patong Bay, which is on the west side of Phuket Island. The island is located south of mainland Thailand which is connected by a bridge. There is no port, so tender in we did. The beachfront town of Patong is crowded with tourists. They have a beautiful white sand beach, but we could barely see any of it through all of the lounge chairs, umbrellas, water sport stalls, food stalls, and anything you can think of stalls lined up on the sand. This is Phuket’s most famous and developed beach, and most of the major hotel chains were represented. Even off the beach, all I could see were bars, restaurants, and stall after stall selling junk. More than 3 million tourists spend their annual holiday here. We were on an all day tour so we did not have a chance to walk through it. I don’t think I wanted to anyway. I am sure this was not a very good first impression of Thailand. We drove to Phuket town which is about 12 miles east of Patong and took about a half hour. The roads are very good here and easy to navigate, but the traffic is heavy at times. We had to drive across the island which took us upland and then down into Phuket town. It was very pretty, with great views of the other beaches. Phuket town is bustling with locals and tourists who live there. It has almost totally recovered from the tsunami of 2004. It even has a ‘western’ section, where stores and shops sell all things western, such as food and clothes. This was something that I never thought of before, but we have certain parts in our US cities named after the majority of the people living in that area, such as Chinatown…why not Westerntown, this was a first for me. Thailand is a Buddhist nation and once a part of the Kingdom of Siam in the 13^th century. Our major stop was the Siam Elephant Safari. It is an ongoing conservation, and protection project for the Thai elephants. Unlike most ship tours, almost the entire excursion fee was going to the camp. We learned about the lifecycle, and the history of the elephants of Thailand. There were some babies, but most were older and wiser. Unlike a zoo where they are confined, this was much like a retirement home for elephants. Instead of killing them they are free to roam the many acres of the camp and give the tourists a ride. This was well regulated. The animals were never prodded, hurt, or under any stress. They chose their own way on the path and they did. Sometimes going into the bushes with all aboard. All of the workers respect these magnificent creatures, and were proud to show what they are doing to protect them. The ride was pretty bumpy and slow, but very peaceful once we got into the rhythm of the movements. I never thought I would ever do something like that, but I am glad I did. It was an amazing experience. We went through a rubber tree plantation, and saw how latex was harvested. Much like sap for maple syrup, but this was snow white and very thick. Did you know that the best quality latex is used for the manufacture of condoms? Well, we were told that fact with a little giggle. We watched how rice was harvested, and how they make their version of curry. Everyone has their own concoction, and personal tastes. Much like our many different versions of spaghetti sauce, but oh so spicy….yum. First time I have ever seen a turmeric root or a bergamot leaf. Sadly the ship was calling and we had to get back on board. I wish I could have spent more time here. The people are friendly, and what little of the island we saw was beautiful. Exploring Thailand away from the throngs of tourists would be ideal, but maybe very primitive. I am sure that there are very nice beaches to snorkel and dive in without the uncontrolled development in some areas. Looking beneath the sunning bodies on the beach this is a very lovely place. And by the way…. A massage on the beach is only $10 for 50 minutes. How can you beat that……on to Sri Lanka.

Shipboard Meanderings…….

The ship is sailing across the Bay of Bengal, round the southern point of India, north up the coast, across the Indian Ocean into the Gulf of Aden and the Red Sea to Egypt. This means pirates. As passengers we have already been instructed on what to do in case of an attack. Mostly, just stay away from any windows and open decks and sit down in case the captain has to do a quick maneuver. I was wondering if we were going to have to do anything or if the ship had to prepare. I know that the possibility of attacking a cruise ship is low, but there is always a first for everything and I am glad they are being cautious. First of all we were told that we are going to speed up through these areas. Almost full speed and we have a high freeboard. Because of the speed we will be arriving in Egypt early. We are being tracked by the coalition forces and warships are in the vicinity. I have already seen a few. All of the open decks have extra security walking around 24/7, with binoc’s during the day and night vision devices at night. And all of the lower deck fire hoses are charged and ready. There are also 2 manned long range acoustic devices rigged and ready to go. The only thing I haven’t seen are guns, but I am sure they are around. It will be an interesting week or two.

Patong beachelephant ride

Singapore

March 18^th and 19^th

Singapore

2 full days in Singapore. Hot, humid and overcast. Singapore is very strict. We had to keep our passports with us at all times, and they were checked every time we got off the ship and returned. This is the first time I have seen my passport since we left in Jan. On this cruise the ship takes care of storing, and keeping track of all the visas, stamps, and your passport. We were not allowed to take off any chewing gum, (it is legal to chew it, but illegal to sell or buy it) chewing tobacco, imitation tobacco products, controlled drugs or psychotropic substances, the usual fire arms, obscene articles or videos, and any reproduction of copyrighted materials. Offenders are subject to a huge fine or jail. Jaywalking is not allowed or littering. Dropping a tissue, or spitting is grounds for a huge fine, and if you get caught with illegal drugs, the death penalty it is. Now with that said we did get off the ship. Singapore is the cleanest city I have ever been in. It has strict pro-environmental initiatives and the maintenance of its green spaces, which are many. It is only about 700 sq. kilometers, about 3 times the size of Washington DC, with a population of about 8 million. About 80% live in government housing which means they live in a 1 room condo which costs about $500,000. The government loans them the money at about 2%. You are not allowed to own a house if you are not married, or until you turn 35. It is the 22^nd richest country in the world with the highest standard of living in Asia. Owning a car is by permit only, and controlled by the government. To own and operate a car will cost about $100,000. The permit is $60,000 and that is for the smallest size car. If you want to buy a larger car it is more. This is a way to keep the traffic congestion at a minimum. The birthrate is small, 1.01 child per family. So the government is encouraging families to propagate by giving them $10,000 per child. But on the other hand, since land is scarce, cremation is encouraged. If you prefer to be buried, it is very expensive. You are interred for 15 yrs. in a plot by yourself. When that time is up, you are placed with 2 other people for another 15 yrs. Then when that is up, you are very close neighbors with 8 other people for another 15 yrs. Kind of creepy, but I did see internment shops in the city. Petroleum is the major export. Singapore is one of the major shipping ports in the world. Miles and miles of containers stored on the ports and container ships anchored in the bay. Over 150,000 container ships come and go per year. Most everyone speaks English and uses public transportation which is very safe and easy to use. Once we figured it out we rode the subway all over the city. First we took a tour to the top of Mt. Faber for a panoramic view of the city. Very nice but a little hazy. It was about 97 degrees with as much humidity. The buildings are very modern, and built with Fung Shui in mind. Some of the best and different architecture I have ever seen. I felt like I was in the “Jetsons”. Then a tour through the biggest orchid garden in the world, 60,000 plants and all very beautiful. A stop to see the Merlion- lion head with a mermaid body-the new symbol of Singapore since 1972. Then a walk through China town. After the tour, we headed out on our own to the downtown area. First stop, the world famous Raffles Hotel. This is where the Singapore Sling was invented. So, to the Long Bar it was. After a $26 sling each…..yep, this is not a typo. Another first…Singapore is the most expensive city I have ever been to. Even though the Singapore dollar is worth just a little bit less than $US, the prices are astronomical. Just to use a phrase that is fitting to this city. So, we sipped our drink since a huge thunderstorm was drowning the city and decided to wait for it to pass. After the refreshing deluge, both in the bar and out, it had cooled down immensely. We decided to walk down to the waterfront and ride the elevator to the top of the Sands Hotel and Casino. 56 floors up, and 40 dollars later…yep, not much is free here… we were on top of the highest structure in the city overlooking a hazy sunset. It was worth every penny. Whoops, I meant quarter. This hotel is breathtaking. It consists of three separate buildings with a structure that looks like the body of an airplane spanning across the top of all three. There is a viewing deck (which we were only allowed on), restaurants, and all of the pool area’s that are for hotel guests only. We were not allowed to even get close to the pool areas. There was security all over the place, so sneaking in was not an option. And I really did not want to spend the night in jail…or longer. This is one of only a few casinos in Singapore and they bring in as much money as Las Vegas. Tourists spend big money here. You need to have your passport to get into the gaming area. If you are a native resident, you have to pay $100 to get in. The tourists get in free. The government discourages gambling, but the $100 is said to go to charity. After a full day, and almost night (we didn’t get back to the ship until 11pm, which is the latest we have stayed out anywhere) we were exhausted. We only had a few hours the next day, so we took the subway into Chinatown. It was hotter than yesterday, so we walked, and shopped, and stopped for lunch. We were pretty used to the heat by now, but even after drinking gallons of water, it just wears you down. Very few stores have AC, except for the malls, which we tried to avoid. I can do that at home, and pay cheaper prices. Back onboard at 4pm. I don’t know if I would ever come back here. Everything is beautiful, there is so much to see and do, the people are lovely, and it is safe and tranquil. So why?….there is just this underlying feeling of sterility. The people are lovely, but they act like robots. Maybe it’s the government’s fixation on cleanliness and order. Maybe it was just me, but it felt kind of like cavorting with the Eloi’s in The Time Machine. I just kept waiting for that horn to blow. When we were in Chinatown, the proprietor of her shop whispered in Bruce’s ear “we’re watching you” but maybe it was the mustache again…….just kind of strange is all. Maybe I have been at sea too long. Next stop…Thailand.

Sands Hotel and Casinoorchids

Phu My, Vietnam

March 15^th….day 69

Phu My, Vietnam

We docked at the port of Phu My which is the gateway to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) which is a 70 mile drive to the city. The port is mostly industrial, so an excursion into the city it was. The weather is expected to reach 100 with humidity to match. Yikes! Packing water is a must today. Saigon is home to over 9 million people and most of them drive motor scooters. So the streets are jammed with them. There are about 21,500 people living per square kilometer so most of the living conditions are not very good. Everyone wants to live on a major street so they can set up a shop in front and live either above or behind the store. The government wanted to stop this, but for most of these people this is their only way to make money. Jobs are scarce and hard to come by. With the traffic and poor road conditions it took us about 2 hrs to drive one way. We drove through rice fields and rubber plantations. Saigon is the largest city in Vietnam located on the Saigon River. It is busy, and the smog and heat were intense. We visited a history museum which had artifacts illustrating the cultures from the Bronze Age to modern day. We enjoyed a water puppet show and went to a lacquer ware workshop which is exported all over the world. It was very beautiful and we did buy some panels. The most moving place we went to was the Reunification Hall Museum. Formerly known as the Presidential Palace, this was made famous when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the front gates, signaling the end of the Vietnam War. We toured through the underground halls and much of the American telecommunication equipment is still there. The preserved pictures and war maps lining the walls say it all. Our tour guide was young, only about 7 yrs old when the war ended. His Father worked for the US military during the war. He now wants to become a policeman, but the communist government researches the family back at least 3 generations. So, because of the US connection, or unless he has a huge bribe, he or his sons will not work in any government job. The Vietnamese people are only allowed to have 2 children and if a government official has more, they are fired. I don’t see how this could be enforced for the general public, since most of the families live together under one roof. This was from a Vietnamese perspective but believable. The history is incredible, and the people resourceful. And believe it or not, everywhere we went we were watched, to a point. Government security was everywhere. They want the tourists to come back, spend money and have a good experience. 2 days at sea, a St. Patrick’s Day party, and on to Singapore.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

March 14^th…..68 days at sea.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

Back in the tropics. Temp. 85 and the humidity to match. I never in my wildest dreams thought I would be writing about, let alone visit Vietnam. We have 2 ports of call here, Nha Trang and Phu My. Nha Trang is the capital of Khanh Hoa Province, Vietnam. It is located in the southern part of Vietnam. Up until a few years ago it was a small sleepy fishing village. Now, recent government and private investors are transforming it into a beachside resort area, which is a very popular vacation destination for international tourists and the Vietnamese. We saw several high end hotel chains under construction. The beach promenade is beautiful and the water is warm. Bruce and I walked along the beach and found tons of sea glass. The beaches reminded me of Hawaii, where the surf breaks right on the shore, and the sand is very course. We were docked about a 30 minute drive from the city so we booked a city tour. We went to the 7^th century built Cham Po Nagar complex where Hindus worshiped for more than 500 years. Only 4 spires remain, but the Buddhist community still arrives to pay their respects. We had to remove our shoes and cover our shoulders and knees. Instead of candles, they light incense and the smell is everywhere. It was perched on top of a hill, so the views of the city were very nice. Fishing boats and beaches as far as the eye can see. Next stop was the Lon Son Pagoda which is marked by a 78 ft. tall white Buddha sitting on a lotus blossom, which can be seen all over the city. The Pagoda has been rebuilt several times and the glass and ceramic tile decorations are beautiful. The Pagoda is still home to 8 practicing monks and pays tribute to the lives and tragic deaths of the fellow monks who dramatically burned themselves in Saigon protesting the Vietnam War. We walked the 152 steps to the top to see the Buddha. They are in the process of erecting statues surrounding the Buddha of all the monks that died. We then paid our own tribute by lighting incense, giving a silent prayer and personal wish, and sticking it into a pot of sand in front of the Buddha. It was very beautiful and moving. Vietnam is known for its beautiful embroidery. We visited a factory where everything is handmade. It is exquisite. You can tell an exceptional piece by the back. It must look just like the front, and it does. Young girls sit for hours turning out this wonderful artwork. The conditions seemed nice, but this is a communist country and I was ever curious if these were the real working conditions or just for show. I chose the latter. No eye contact or interaction was ever made and there was always someone watching. As always, there were the usual hawkers and vendors. Here, they were all women, and we all know how persistent they can be, but not so much in your face. One US dollar is worth 20,000 Vietnamese dong. A huge number to me, but it’s all in perspective. The money has been devalued so much that they don’t deal in any coins. The currency is all paper money with the highest note being 500,000. We kept a 10,000 one for Kai which is only worth 50 US cents . Imagine.

Hong Kong

March 11^th and 12th

Hong Kong, Special Administrative Region People’s Republic of China (officially)

2 days in Hong Kong. We arrived in cold, foggy, rainy weather so it was hard to see the magnificent skyline. Hong Kong is divided into 3 regions. Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, and the New Territories. We docked in Kowloon, which provided us with a magnificent view of the downtown Hong Kong business district. There were tall skyscrapers as far as the eye could see, and apartment buildings that must house thousands. The whole territory covers 424 sq miles and is home to almost 8 million people. So, of course, property is at a premium. You can feel the energy with huge neon advertising signs, lights, and more lights. It is busy, the traffic is horrendous, and there are people everywhere. After 4 days at sea I was ready to experience the city of Hong Kong. We had a tour booked to see the city highlights. We figured it would be best to get our bearings before we ventured out on our own. We went up to Victoria Peak which is the tallest hill in the city (about 1300ft) and has panoramic views. Well, we took their word for it, since it was totally fogged in and we couldn’t see a darn thing. Oh well. The Sampan ride was fun in Aberdeen, and we stopped for shopping in Stanley Market. Back to the pier, and since it was Sunday, time to find some Dim Sum. Yummy and good. Kowloon is the main tourist district, so we put on our walking shoes and headed out. We walked for miles until dark. Hong Kong has a fantastic public transportation system. The buses, trains, and cabs are easy to use and cheap, but we needed to walk. I have never seen so many huge high end stores in my life. Square blocks dedicated to Prada, Hermes, Coach, etc. A Rolex and Tiffany’s on every corner….yes indeed. People are in line very early in the morning waiting for these stores to open. The bargain shopping for designer wear is a thing of the past here. Same with the electronics. You have to know your prices and be very careful of what you are buying. The prices might be a little more inexpensive than in the States, but sometimes not. After a quick ‘look see’ we were on a mission to find the knock-offs. Hey, this is China, and the street markets are blocks long and you can buy fake anything and everything. And it’s not imported. The US dollar is equal to about 7 HK dollars, so off we went to find a deal. We felt kind of flush having $1400HK in our pockets. Which is about $200US. Bargaining is still the norm, but we didn’t buy much. Lots of junk, but it was fun. And the prices were cheap. We wandered around until dark, getting lost in small alleys and side streets. When the street signs stop printing words in English you know you are off the beaten path. We felt very safe and were never approached by anyone. Very interesting, actually. I think that they were mostly wondering why we were there. After finally finding the main street we were exhausted. So back to the ship to enjoy a glass of wine out of the rain, warm our tootsies, and watch the laser light show that happens every night at 8 pm. All of the skyscrapers along the waterline have neon lights and colored lasers that put on a synchronized show for about 15 minutes every night…..very cool even if it was a little foggy. Up early the next morning to find some free Wi-Fi. Thanks to the Sheraton Hotel and a delicious cappuccino, we made phone calls and caught up on e-mails. We have to be back on board by 4 pm so we only had a few hours to explore some more. It was still cold, but not raining, so that was a plus. We walked for miles again. This time checking out parks and statues. We still did a little shopping but mainly just wandered the city. Hong Kong is amazing, interesting, and I loved it here. I could easily spend a couple of weeks in and around the area, including Beijing and The Great Wall. You would have to fly there though. It is easy to get around, very little crime, and most everyone speaks English. Next stop, Viet Nam.

One of the main shopping streetsapartments along the harbor

Lombok Indonesia

March 6^th

Lombok, Indonesia

This is the first time that we have a back-to-back port. Getting up early 2 days in a row…unthinkable. Seriously, though, we had a 4 hour excursion booked, that turned out to be more than 7 hrs. due to tender problems and being anchored so far from the dock. About a 45 minute tender ride one way and one of the tenders decided to get cranky and have engine problems. Just one more time that we are grateful to have a ship excursion…..we always know we will get back on time. Even if it is late. One thing that I have noticed on this World Cruise…there is much more leeway on getting back and waiting for late comers. This is a fairly new port of call. Usually they go to Bali, which is only an island away, but Lombok is the new upcoming port of call. They are embracing tourism and improving the Island. It is very primitive, interesting, and very poor. This was my first encounter with the lack of ‘Western’ facilities…very interesting. Not wearing underwear would make it much easier. The almost 3 million inhabitants are very lovely, but bargaining to buy is the rule here. Once you step off the bus, or anywhere you go, they are after you….and once you get past the intimidation, it is almost a game. They expect it. Very different from Western ways, but magical in the exchange. You have to have interaction whether you like it or not. There is no ‘personal space’ here. This was a new experience for us on this level but Bruce was getting into the groove. He is the shopper in the family, and he did well…..he was even corrected by the locals on the procedure…first you make an offer and then they do and somewhere you meet in the middle. Quite a long dance. Indonesian pearls were the great buy here. The island is mostly agriculture with rice being the main crop. We saw many fields and drying areas. It was very beautiful, green, and tropical. We visited a Hindu temple where we had to wear a yellow sash for respect and give an offering. There are families that can stay out in the open on platforms for a week at a time, praying and meditating for the prosperity of the family. Holland America employs many people from this area, so there were family reunions and visitors coming on the ship. Jobs are very scarce and hard to come by. The average daily wage is about 5 US dollars a day, so many families on the Island are benefiting from the employment of the cruise line. The full time jobs, such as police officers or government work are still obtained by bribery. Anyone can set up a roadside stand, selling anything from bottles of gasoline (for the tons of motor scooters on the road) to food and drink. And they are on every block. People just trying to get by and make a living. Some of the living conditions that we saw were very horrific. In the last few years, the education system has improved. All of the children go to private schools, paid by the government, and education is taken seriously. English is taught to all as a second language. If they test well they can go on to university, and if they don’t they go into a trade. Investing in education means a better environment for everyone. They hope in a few years that you just can’t hang a sign out the door and say that you are a qualified Dr. or Dentist. These are very resourceful, happy people. Every time we passed a school, all of the kids on the playground waved to us. In fact, everywhere we went we were given a great big smile and a wave. In a few years this might be the next Bali; it is a very beautiful place.

Shipboard Meanderings.

We are 4 days at sea and on our way to Hong Kong. We will sail through the Java Sea and then into the South China Sea where we will dock in Kowloon. This on the mainland side of Hong Kong, with the Island side just a short ferry ride away.

We crossed back over the Equator into the Northern Hemisphere, so we are no longer polliwogs. We can now say that we are officially ‘Shellbacks’. The ship threw a King Neptune party and we had the official sacrifices to the king. (The newly initiated crew members were either given pardon by the captain or covered in colored whipped cream and thrown into the ocean “pool”) Yes, the pool had to be drained and cleaned afterward. A little silly, but quite fun, and all of the sacrifices were volunteers. I was sad to leave the southern hemisphere and the weather. We are back into springtime with the corresponding weather. Cool and rainy. Oh well, we will soon be in India, where, I have heard it is in the 100s. Yikes!

Sometimes I feel so far away from the US and the news of the day. We just get little snips now and then, but maybe that’s a good thing. From what I have heard so far, it’s really quite silly. Maybe my perspective is changing about things that are really important. I have not seen gas prices below 9 US dollars a gallon…anywhere, with some countries as much as 11. This is the norm for them. I know that a lot of politics are involved, but as an American, I realize how fortunate I am to live where I do, enjoy the benefits, and have choices. At 56, I am still growing up, but my ‘bubble has popped’ and I really have nothing to complain about. I am grateful.

rice fieldshopping at the ‘Lombok Typical Art shop’.

Komodo Island

March 5^th

Komodo Island, Indonesia

Just a 5 hour stop on this Island today. Komodo Island is one of the 17,508 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia. Tourists primarily stop here to see the dragons. It has only one human settlement on Slawi Bay. It is very primitive and fresh water is scarce, and collected during monsoon season. The population is primarily Muslim. The Island is beautiful… green and tropical. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO heritage site and known for its Komodo Dragons, which pretty much roam around where they want to. We were escorted through the park by a guide and 2 rangers which were equipped with forked sticks to ward off any aggressive animals. These animals are protected so they are not allowed to harm them. I was hoping that a gun would be close by, but I guess all they have to do is poke them in the nose and eyes and they back off. Yea…right. They are not fenced in and can roam freely. They are huge, and they eat the wild deer and pigs, bones and all, that roam the island. They are not afraid to attack humans, and their saliva is packed with venom and bacteria. So enough said….. We were warned before we got off the ship that these things are very dangerous. We were told to stay with the rangers, do not wander off, and stay in a group. They can smell blood and meat from miles away so women having their ‘monthlies’ were strongly urged not to go off the ship. We were not to take any food, or snacks with us. Just water. And because it was so dangerous, you could not get off the ship at all unless you had an escorted excursion booked. The trail through the park was about a mile long. It was like walking through a jungle. Trees, vines, and huge plants. It was hot, steamy, and there was absolutely no breeze. My glasses kept fogging up due to the hot steamy air. First time that has ever happened to me. It was so quiet that you could hear almost everything. Birds, water, and creepy things that you know are out there but can’t see…..not that I was a little on edge anyway. We were on a safari to find these dragons. That’s what it felt like anyway. Even though we were hot and pouring with sweat, it was wonderful. And find them we did, or they found us…..and yes, they did get a little aggressive and had to be poked. I was a little more than nervous. When you see a huge lizard walking toward you with its tongue flicking, you know that it’s checking you out. Now, some people in our group just had to have a picture ‘with’ the dragon in the background. So they would squat down, turn their backs to them and snap away…..just what I want to do, act like prey on their level. Some people just don’t get it, and I just don’t get them. This was definitely not a zoo, and maybe I was over-reacting, but this was pretty primitive. I did not want to see the theory of ‘natural selection’ enacted here, but it could easily have been, and well deserved. I would take the word of a ranger over a fellow passenger (I mean idiot), any day….. I was totally content to stay well away from the action. But the rangers did their job, held them at bay, and everyone got the photo of the day. We were not guaranteed a sighting when we booked the trip, so this was pretty awesome. After our trek, the very friendly villagers were selling local crafts so we bought a few trinkets. It was an amazing day and a Birthday I will always remember…on to Lembar, Lombok, Indonesia.

Sydney and Cairns

February 25^th and 26^th

Sydney, Australia

At last. We made it across the Pacific. It took about 19 days and the last few have been warm, calm and relaxing. Caught up on reading and various shipboard classes. Had an early wake up call to go out on the bow of the ship and watch as we sailed into one of the most magnificent harbors in the world. And it was…a beautiful Saturday sunrise, and lots of sailboats, and fishing vessels just getting ready to go out for the day. Looking forward to a warm sunny day. It took about an hour to sail in from the sea to the dock. We passed the Opera House, and sailed under the Sydney Harbor Bridge. A very ‘pinch me, am I really seeing this with my own eyes’ kind of moment. It looked just like the postcards and pictures. We docked in Darling Harbor about 8am and we were off the ship at 9, after an extensive debarking search which included a very thorough sniff by drug dogs. Customs even came on board and did random drug searches of staterooms. With the median age of 78, I shudder to think of what they might find. Anyway, I did not hear of anyone having to go to jail. We were not able to dock at Circular Quay, darn it. This is the dock right next to the opera house. It was already occupied. Darling Harbor, where we docked, is just on the other side and only about a 5 minute drive. The ship provided a free shuttle service to the downtown area, which was nice. I didn’t realize downtown Sydney had so many hilly streets. It would have been about a ½ hr walk hoofing it up and down streets in the industrial district. The population of Sydney is around 5 million and it is huge. After virtually seeing nothing but sea water for the last couple of weeks, it was also kind of a culture shock. Planes, trains, cars, and tons of people. The first time I saw children playing and a hearing a baby cry, made me realize just how isolated and remote we have been. Our first and only tour that we booked was to the Koala Park. Yes, we saw koalas, kangaroo’s, dingoes and almost any Australian animal and bird that there is. We saw green spaces that they have kept natural. I kept smelling a certain scent and realized that it was eucalyptus…it is everywhere. And very strong. The heat and humidity enhanced every smell. Then we caught the ferry and rode that all the way back to the dock. A very nice way to see the outskirts of Sydney, and all of the huge houses built along the shores. Got back around 4pm, so we went to ‘The Rocks’ area. This historic district is in the main downtown harbor area. There is shopping, restaurants, and of course the Sydney Opera House. Very cool. It also has many old buildings and museums. We walked and shopped. Sydney is very, very, expensive. Our dollar is almost equal to the Aussie dollar but things cost almost 4 times as much. Bruce and I had dinner along the harbor….2 small fish and chips and 1 drink each, 65 dollars…. Yikes! Guess we are going to have to hit the ATM before shopping tomorrow. They do not accept US dollars. The next day we took the shuttle downtown and shopped at the Sunday market. Lots of interesting things that were handmade. Bought a necklace that was just the insides of a Swiss watch with an Australian opal and tiny little rubies attached to the workings. Very different….Happy Birthday to me. Tried to figure out how to post pictures on the blog using the free Wi-Fi areas…..still having trouble and after an hour we were too frustrated to try anymore. I will get some posted, although they might be all at once. Anyway, we had a drink at the oldest bar in town and walked around until we had to be back on board at 3pm. I could spend at least a week here and probably not see everything that Sydney has to offer. It is an amazing city. Would love to come back to Australia and spend at least a couple of months. Too much to see and not enough time. 2 days sailing north along the coast. Next stop Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef.

February 29^th----Leap Day

Cairns, Australia.

After 2 days of sailing in hot, humid, and sometimes rainy weather we docked in Cairns at 7 am. It is the rainy season here and this part of Northern Australia just had major flooding in Queensland. I can see why. When it rains here it really pours. Along with the Great Barrier Reef, this area has many rain forests. It is green and tropical. We had an 8 hr excursion to the Reef. It was either the rain forest or the reef….not even a question…the reef, definitely. We boarded a ferry which took us out to the platforms that are set up as docks out on the reef. Every company has their own dock. It took us about 1 ½ hrs to get there. Pretty bumpy going over, which made about 10 people very seasick. We were fine, thank goodness. The Captain and his wife joined our excursion, so I knew that we would get back to the ship on time. Bruce had a 1 tank dive scheduled and I was going to snorkel. They provided all the equipment and gear. Even the full body sun-suit which even had hand coverings to protect your fingers from getting bit by the fish. Now I didn’t have to worry about how long I could stay in the water without having to put sunscreen on over and over. I think that they provide these so you don’t have to use as much sunscreen which, I am sure, is a contamination issue to the coral and fish. And the sun was intense. In the water we went…..it was like being in a salt water aquarium, and just as warm. About 87 degrees and crystal clear. There were dozens of species of coral, tropical fish, squid, turtles, and some sharks, though I didn’t see any of those. I was speechless. And no, it wasn’t because my mouth was plugged with the snorkel. It was just like the postcards and pictures. The tropical colors were amazing. Blues, greens, reds, and yellows, even purple coral….so very vivid it is hard to describe. I did not want to get out of the water but fatigue finally set in. Bruce’s dive lasted about an hour and he saw many more things since the divers could go out farther. He loved it. After lunch and a rest it was time to go back in the water for another incredible hour or so. They also had a glass bottom boat for the people that did not, or could not get in the water. We did go out on that later. You could not see as much, but it was just as wonderful. I did not want to leave, but back to the ship we had to go. We were leaving that night and I guess we did have to get the Captain back so he could sail us away. We really do have a very cool Captain. He has been a Captain with Holland America for years, but this is his first World Cruise as a captain, and he gets excited at new ports just like the rest of us. I still can’t believe that we swam in the Barrier reef. It was a dream come true, and by far one of the best things that we have experienced. We were not scheduled to leave until 3 am the next morning due to the tides. We were docked in very shallow water so we had to wait for high tide before we could leave. Bruce and I were going to go into town after dinner, but I was exhausted and it was literally pouring water outside and getting dark. Bruce went anyway just to check out the city, but most everything was closed for the night except Wooly’s---we know it as Woolworth’s. Australian wine and batteries, yes indeed. At least we can bring wine, beer, and soda back on board with us. On to Komodo Island, Indonesia.

Shipboard Meanderings………..

We have 4 days at sea before we get to Indonesia. We will sail through the north part of the Barrier Reef for 2 days, go around the tip of Australia, with New Guinea to the north and then head west. The reef covers over 1000 square miles, and the ship is required by law to have a reef pilot on board the whole time we are in the area. There are channels and very shallow areas that have to be maneuvered around. As a matter of fact we have already sailed by many shipwrecks that have been caught on the reefs. The pilot guides the ship and makes sure that it is not expelling anything that might contaminate the environment. We had to sail 25 miles out of the reef zone to dump all of the treated ‘gray water’ that was on board into the ocean and then go back in. We have been at sea 56 days, and have sailed 19554 nautical miles. We turn the clocks back another hour tonight, so we will be 7 hrs behind PST but 1 day ahead…I think. This is confusing since we crossed the date line. I really don’t even know what day it is anymore. Only port dates. And believe it or not sea days actually go by pretty fast. About 300 people left the ship in Sydney and only about 100 came on board for the next segment. So there is a total of about 1000 onboard now. I think as the cruise progresses more will be leaving at various ports. On the next blog I will write about the shipboard people dynamics….it’s a virtual ‘ Peyton Place’ around here sometimes……

Hanging out with Wally in the Great Barrier Reef