Hong Kong

March 11^th and 12th

Hong Kong, Special Administrative Region People’s Republic of China (officially)

2 days in Hong Kong. We arrived in cold, foggy, rainy weather so it was hard to see the magnificent skyline. Hong Kong is divided into 3 regions. Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, and the New Territories. We docked in Kowloon, which provided us with a magnificent view of the downtown Hong Kong business district. There were tall skyscrapers as far as the eye could see, and apartment buildings that must house thousands. The whole territory covers 424 sq miles and is home to almost 8 million people. So, of course, property is at a premium. You can feel the energy with huge neon advertising signs, lights, and more lights. It is busy, the traffic is horrendous, and there are people everywhere. After 4 days at sea I was ready to experience the city of Hong Kong. We had a tour booked to see the city highlights. We figured it would be best to get our bearings before we ventured out on our own. We went up to Victoria Peak which is the tallest hill in the city (about 1300ft) and has panoramic views. Well, we took their word for it, since it was totally fogged in and we couldn’t see a darn thing. Oh well. The Sampan ride was fun in Aberdeen, and we stopped for shopping in Stanley Market. Back to the pier, and since it was Sunday, time to find some Dim Sum. Yummy and good. Kowloon is the main tourist district, so we put on our walking shoes and headed out. We walked for miles until dark. Hong Kong has a fantastic public transportation system. The buses, trains, and cabs are easy to use and cheap, but we needed to walk. I have never seen so many huge high end stores in my life. Square blocks dedicated to Prada, Hermes, Coach, etc. A Rolex and Tiffany’s on every corner….yes indeed. People are in line very early in the morning waiting for these stores to open. The bargain shopping for designer wear is a thing of the past here. Same with the electronics. You have to know your prices and be very careful of what you are buying. The prices might be a little more inexpensive than in the States, but sometimes not. After a quick ‘look see’ we were on a mission to find the knock-offs. Hey, this is China, and the street markets are blocks long and you can buy fake anything and everything. And it’s not imported. The US dollar is equal to about 7 HK dollars, so off we went to find a deal. We felt kind of flush having $1400HK in our pockets. Which is about $200US. Bargaining is still the norm, but we didn’t buy much. Lots of junk, but it was fun. And the prices were cheap. We wandered around until dark, getting lost in small alleys and side streets. When the street signs stop printing words in English you know you are off the beaten path. We felt very safe and were never approached by anyone. Very interesting, actually. I think that they were mostly wondering why we were there. After finally finding the main street we were exhausted. So back to the ship to enjoy a glass of wine out of the rain, warm our tootsies, and watch the laser light show that happens every night at 8 pm. All of the skyscrapers along the waterline have neon lights and colored lasers that put on a synchronized show for about 15 minutes every night…..very cool even if it was a little foggy. Up early the next morning to find some free Wi-Fi. Thanks to the Sheraton Hotel and a delicious cappuccino, we made phone calls and caught up on e-mails. We have to be back on board by 4 pm so we only had a few hours to explore some more. It was still cold, but not raining, so that was a plus. We walked for miles again. This time checking out parks and statues. We still did a little shopping but mainly just wandered the city. Hong Kong is amazing, interesting, and I loved it here. I could easily spend a couple of weeks in and around the area, including Beijing and The Great Wall. You would have to fly there though. It is easy to get around, very little crime, and most everyone speaks English. Next stop, Viet Nam.

One of the main shopping streetsapartments along the harbor

Lombok Indonesia

March 6^th

Lombok, Indonesia

This is the first time that we have a back-to-back port. Getting up early 2 days in a row…unthinkable. Seriously, though, we had a 4 hour excursion booked, that turned out to be more than 7 hrs. due to tender problems and being anchored so far from the dock. About a 45 minute tender ride one way and one of the tenders decided to get cranky and have engine problems. Just one more time that we are grateful to have a ship excursion…..we always know we will get back on time. Even if it is late. One thing that I have noticed on this World Cruise…there is much more leeway on getting back and waiting for late comers. This is a fairly new port of call. Usually they go to Bali, which is only an island away, but Lombok is the new upcoming port of call. They are embracing tourism and improving the Island. It is very primitive, interesting, and very poor. This was my first encounter with the lack of ‘Western’ facilities…very interesting. Not wearing underwear would make it much easier. The almost 3 million inhabitants are very lovely, but bargaining to buy is the rule here. Once you step off the bus, or anywhere you go, they are after you….and once you get past the intimidation, it is almost a game. They expect it. Very different from Western ways, but magical in the exchange. You have to have interaction whether you like it or not. There is no ‘personal space’ here. This was a new experience for us on this level but Bruce was getting into the groove. He is the shopper in the family, and he did well…..he was even corrected by the locals on the procedure…first you make an offer and then they do and somewhere you meet in the middle. Quite a long dance. Indonesian pearls were the great buy here. The island is mostly agriculture with rice being the main crop. We saw many fields and drying areas. It was very beautiful, green, and tropical. We visited a Hindu temple where we had to wear a yellow sash for respect and give an offering. There are families that can stay out in the open on platforms for a week at a time, praying and meditating for the prosperity of the family. Holland America employs many people from this area, so there were family reunions and visitors coming on the ship. Jobs are very scarce and hard to come by. The average daily wage is about 5 US dollars a day, so many families on the Island are benefiting from the employment of the cruise line. The full time jobs, such as police officers or government work are still obtained by bribery. Anyone can set up a roadside stand, selling anything from bottles of gasoline (for the tons of motor scooters on the road) to food and drink. And they are on every block. People just trying to get by and make a living. Some of the living conditions that we saw were very horrific. In the last few years, the education system has improved. All of the children go to private schools, paid by the government, and education is taken seriously. English is taught to all as a second language. If they test well they can go on to university, and if they don’t they go into a trade. Investing in education means a better environment for everyone. They hope in a few years that you just can’t hang a sign out the door and say that you are a qualified Dr. or Dentist. These are very resourceful, happy people. Every time we passed a school, all of the kids on the playground waved to us. In fact, everywhere we went we were given a great big smile and a wave. In a few years this might be the next Bali; it is a very beautiful place.

Shipboard Meanderings.

We are 4 days at sea and on our way to Hong Kong. We will sail through the Java Sea and then into the South China Sea where we will dock in Kowloon. This on the mainland side of Hong Kong, with the Island side just a short ferry ride away.

We crossed back over the Equator into the Northern Hemisphere, so we are no longer polliwogs. We can now say that we are officially ‘Shellbacks’. The ship threw a King Neptune party and we had the official sacrifices to the king. (The newly initiated crew members were either given pardon by the captain or covered in colored whipped cream and thrown into the ocean “pool”) Yes, the pool had to be drained and cleaned afterward. A little silly, but quite fun, and all of the sacrifices were volunteers. I was sad to leave the southern hemisphere and the weather. We are back into springtime with the corresponding weather. Cool and rainy. Oh well, we will soon be in India, where, I have heard it is in the 100s. Yikes!

Sometimes I feel so far away from the US and the news of the day. We just get little snips now and then, but maybe that’s a good thing. From what I have heard so far, it’s really quite silly. Maybe my perspective is changing about things that are really important. I have not seen gas prices below 9 US dollars a gallon…anywhere, with some countries as much as 11. This is the norm for them. I know that a lot of politics are involved, but as an American, I realize how fortunate I am to live where I do, enjoy the benefits, and have choices. At 56, I am still growing up, but my ‘bubble has popped’ and I really have nothing to complain about. I am grateful.

rice fieldshopping at the ‘Lombok Typical Art shop’.

Komodo Island

March 5^th

Komodo Island, Indonesia

Just a 5 hour stop on this Island today. Komodo Island is one of the 17,508 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia. Tourists primarily stop here to see the dragons. It has only one human settlement on Slawi Bay. It is very primitive and fresh water is scarce, and collected during monsoon season. The population is primarily Muslim. The Island is beautiful… green and tropical. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO heritage site and known for its Komodo Dragons, which pretty much roam around where they want to. We were escorted through the park by a guide and 2 rangers which were equipped with forked sticks to ward off any aggressive animals. These animals are protected so they are not allowed to harm them. I was hoping that a gun would be close by, but I guess all they have to do is poke them in the nose and eyes and they back off. Yea…right. They are not fenced in and can roam freely. They are huge, and they eat the wild deer and pigs, bones and all, that roam the island. They are not afraid to attack humans, and their saliva is packed with venom and bacteria. So enough said….. We were warned before we got off the ship that these things are very dangerous. We were told to stay with the rangers, do not wander off, and stay in a group. They can smell blood and meat from miles away so women having their ‘monthlies’ were strongly urged not to go off the ship. We were not to take any food, or snacks with us. Just water. And because it was so dangerous, you could not get off the ship at all unless you had an escorted excursion booked. The trail through the park was about a mile long. It was like walking through a jungle. Trees, vines, and huge plants. It was hot, steamy, and there was absolutely no breeze. My glasses kept fogging up due to the hot steamy air. First time that has ever happened to me. It was so quiet that you could hear almost everything. Birds, water, and creepy things that you know are out there but can’t see…..not that I was a little on edge anyway. We were on a safari to find these dragons. That’s what it felt like anyway. Even though we were hot and pouring with sweat, it was wonderful. And find them we did, or they found us…..and yes, they did get a little aggressive and had to be poked. I was a little more than nervous. When you see a huge lizard walking toward you with its tongue flicking, you know that it’s checking you out. Now, some people in our group just had to have a picture ‘with’ the dragon in the background. So they would squat down, turn their backs to them and snap away…..just what I want to do, act like prey on their level. Some people just don’t get it, and I just don’t get them. This was definitely not a zoo, and maybe I was over-reacting, but this was pretty primitive. I did not want to see the theory of ‘natural selection’ enacted here, but it could easily have been, and well deserved. I would take the word of a ranger over a fellow passenger (I mean idiot), any day….. I was totally content to stay well away from the action. But the rangers did their job, held them at bay, and everyone got the photo of the day. We were not guaranteed a sighting when we booked the trip, so this was pretty awesome. After our trek, the very friendly villagers were selling local crafts so we bought a few trinkets. It was an amazing day and a Birthday I will always remember…on to Lembar, Lombok, Indonesia.

Sydney and Cairns

February 25^th and 26^th

Sydney, Australia

At last. We made it across the Pacific. It took about 19 days and the last few have been warm, calm and relaxing. Caught up on reading and various shipboard classes. Had an early wake up call to go out on the bow of the ship and watch as we sailed into one of the most magnificent harbors in the world. And it was…a beautiful Saturday sunrise, and lots of sailboats, and fishing vessels just getting ready to go out for the day. Looking forward to a warm sunny day. It took about an hour to sail in from the sea to the dock. We passed the Opera House, and sailed under the Sydney Harbor Bridge. A very ‘pinch me, am I really seeing this with my own eyes’ kind of moment. It looked just like the postcards and pictures. We docked in Darling Harbor about 8am and we were off the ship at 9, after an extensive debarking search which included a very thorough sniff by drug dogs. Customs even came on board and did random drug searches of staterooms. With the median age of 78, I shudder to think of what they might find. Anyway, I did not hear of anyone having to go to jail. We were not able to dock at Circular Quay, darn it. This is the dock right next to the opera house. It was already occupied. Darling Harbor, where we docked, is just on the other side and only about a 5 minute drive. The ship provided a free shuttle service to the downtown area, which was nice. I didn’t realize downtown Sydney had so many hilly streets. It would have been about a ½ hr walk hoofing it up and down streets in the industrial district. The population of Sydney is around 5 million and it is huge. After virtually seeing nothing but sea water for the last couple of weeks, it was also kind of a culture shock. Planes, trains, cars, and tons of people. The first time I saw children playing and a hearing a baby cry, made me realize just how isolated and remote we have been. Our first and only tour that we booked was to the Koala Park. Yes, we saw koalas, kangaroo’s, dingoes and almost any Australian animal and bird that there is. We saw green spaces that they have kept natural. I kept smelling a certain scent and realized that it was eucalyptus…it is everywhere. And very strong. The heat and humidity enhanced every smell. Then we caught the ferry and rode that all the way back to the dock. A very nice way to see the outskirts of Sydney, and all of the huge houses built along the shores. Got back around 4pm, so we went to ‘The Rocks’ area. This historic district is in the main downtown harbor area. There is shopping, restaurants, and of course the Sydney Opera House. Very cool. It also has many old buildings and museums. We walked and shopped. Sydney is very, very, expensive. Our dollar is almost equal to the Aussie dollar but things cost almost 4 times as much. Bruce and I had dinner along the harbor….2 small fish and chips and 1 drink each, 65 dollars…. Yikes! Guess we are going to have to hit the ATM before shopping tomorrow. They do not accept US dollars. The next day we took the shuttle downtown and shopped at the Sunday market. Lots of interesting things that were handmade. Bought a necklace that was just the insides of a Swiss watch with an Australian opal and tiny little rubies attached to the workings. Very different….Happy Birthday to me. Tried to figure out how to post pictures on the blog using the free Wi-Fi areas…..still having trouble and after an hour we were too frustrated to try anymore. I will get some posted, although they might be all at once. Anyway, we had a drink at the oldest bar in town and walked around until we had to be back on board at 3pm. I could spend at least a week here and probably not see everything that Sydney has to offer. It is an amazing city. Would love to come back to Australia and spend at least a couple of months. Too much to see and not enough time. 2 days sailing north along the coast. Next stop Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef.

February 29^th----Leap Day

Cairns, Australia.

After 2 days of sailing in hot, humid, and sometimes rainy weather we docked in Cairns at 7 am. It is the rainy season here and this part of Northern Australia just had major flooding in Queensland. I can see why. When it rains here it really pours. Along with the Great Barrier Reef, this area has many rain forests. It is green and tropical. We had an 8 hr excursion to the Reef. It was either the rain forest or the reef….not even a question…the reef, definitely. We boarded a ferry which took us out to the platforms that are set up as docks out on the reef. Every company has their own dock. It took us about 1 ½ hrs to get there. Pretty bumpy going over, which made about 10 people very seasick. We were fine, thank goodness. The Captain and his wife joined our excursion, so I knew that we would get back to the ship on time. Bruce had a 1 tank dive scheduled and I was going to snorkel. They provided all the equipment and gear. Even the full body sun-suit which even had hand coverings to protect your fingers from getting bit by the fish. Now I didn’t have to worry about how long I could stay in the water without having to put sunscreen on over and over. I think that they provide these so you don’t have to use as much sunscreen which, I am sure, is a contamination issue to the coral and fish. And the sun was intense. In the water we went…..it was like being in a salt water aquarium, and just as warm. About 87 degrees and crystal clear. There were dozens of species of coral, tropical fish, squid, turtles, and some sharks, though I didn’t see any of those. I was speechless. And no, it wasn’t because my mouth was plugged with the snorkel. It was just like the postcards and pictures. The tropical colors were amazing. Blues, greens, reds, and yellows, even purple coral….so very vivid it is hard to describe. I did not want to get out of the water but fatigue finally set in. Bruce’s dive lasted about an hour and he saw many more things since the divers could go out farther. He loved it. After lunch and a rest it was time to go back in the water for another incredible hour or so. They also had a glass bottom boat for the people that did not, or could not get in the water. We did go out on that later. You could not see as much, but it was just as wonderful. I did not want to leave, but back to the ship we had to go. We were leaving that night and I guess we did have to get the Captain back so he could sail us away. We really do have a very cool Captain. He has been a Captain with Holland America for years, but this is his first World Cruise as a captain, and he gets excited at new ports just like the rest of us. I still can’t believe that we swam in the Barrier reef. It was a dream come true, and by far one of the best things that we have experienced. We were not scheduled to leave until 3 am the next morning due to the tides. We were docked in very shallow water so we had to wait for high tide before we could leave. Bruce and I were going to go into town after dinner, but I was exhausted and it was literally pouring water outside and getting dark. Bruce went anyway just to check out the city, but most everything was closed for the night except Wooly’s---we know it as Woolworth’s. Australian wine and batteries, yes indeed. At least we can bring wine, beer, and soda back on board with us. On to Komodo Island, Indonesia.

Shipboard Meanderings………..

We have 4 days at sea before we get to Indonesia. We will sail through the north part of the Barrier Reef for 2 days, go around the tip of Australia, with New Guinea to the north and then head west. The reef covers over 1000 square miles, and the ship is required by law to have a reef pilot on board the whole time we are in the area. There are channels and very shallow areas that have to be maneuvered around. As a matter of fact we have already sailed by many shipwrecks that have been caught on the reefs. The pilot guides the ship and makes sure that it is not expelling anything that might contaminate the environment. We had to sail 25 miles out of the reef zone to dump all of the treated ‘gray water’ that was on board into the ocean and then go back in. We have been at sea 56 days, and have sailed 19554 nautical miles. We turn the clocks back another hour tonight, so we will be 7 hrs behind PST but 1 day ahead…I think. This is confusing since we crossed the date line. I really don’t even know what day it is anymore. Only port dates. And believe it or not sea days actually go by pretty fast. About 300 people left the ship in Sydney and only about 100 came on board for the next segment. So there is a total of about 1000 onboard now. I think as the cruise progresses more will be leaving at various ports. On the next blog I will write about the shipboard people dynamics….it’s a virtual ‘ Peyton Place’ around here sometimes……

Hanging out with Wally in the Great Barrier Reef

Tahiti, Pago Pago

Papeete, Tahiti

February 16^th

After 5 days at sea we arrived in Tahiti. Bruce scheduled an early morning dive so he was off the ship at 8 am. Little did he know that he was going to do a ‘shark dive.’ Surprised him too. Not great whites by the way, just Black tip and other small sharks. The dive company that he went out with feed them so they are not at all interested in humans and no cages had to be involved. He said it was pretty cool though.  We did not have any excursions booked since we docked right in the downtown area. When Bruce got back to the ship we walked around town and did some shopping. Papeete is the capital of French Polynesia. It is a major shipping port, and it is pretty big with lots of people and traffic to go along with it. The primary language is French with most understanding some English. They have a huge market right off the dock where the locals shop for produce and tourists shop for almost anything. They are known for their vanilla and black pearls.  We walked around there for awhile and bought some things. It was pretty run down and there were a lot of beggars. I guess they are trying to clean up the downtown area and fix up the buildings. Just by looking off the top deck of the ship you can see down the beach where all of the resort areas are and they looked pretty nice. Moorea is just a 50 minute ferry ride across the ocean.  It seems like if visited here you would spend the major amount of your time in the resort areas which were all represented by most of the major hotel chains. It is the rainy season here, so it was hot, hot, hot. About 85 with 95% humidity and absolutely no breeze. After only a couple of hours out in the heat and even after constantly drinking water you are completely wrung out. It felt like you were in a sauna.  The thunder storms started in the early afternoon, so that was a good excuse to go back to the ship. We were not sailing until 10 pm but the rain would not let up and it poured.  On to Pago Pago.

Pago Pago,  American Samoa

February 19^th

After 2 warm wonderful days at sea we arrived in Pago, Pago. Which to be politically correct is pronounced ‘Pango Pango’.  We were able to dock right at the port and they had a nice shopping area set up with lots of stalls selling local crafts. We were only here for 5 hrs and since it was Sunday, we were afraid that everything would be shut down. The Samoan people have a very strong family culture and most everyone attends church on Sundays.  Walking around the small town we could hear singing and the church bells ringing. All of the women and girls were dressed up in their white dresses with flowers in their hair. Even the men and boys dress up in the traditional wrap skirt, which looks very comfortable and cool. It was lovely to watch.  After church they have barbecues and family gatherings.  According to their social laws, there is no swimming on Sundays. Only a few of the stores were open but I think that that was only because the ship was in port. They still have to make living, and 1200 people willing to spend lots of money is too good to pass up. The Island is beautiful, and the people are lovely. There are no major hotels on the Island, very few cars, and only about 4000 native residents in the town. It is part of the U.S. so everyone speaks English and the currency is the US dollar.  This beautiful Island reminds me of how Hawaii might have been about 50 yrs ago.  It does have a major airport and it is only a 5 hr flight from Hawaii. I think that Bruce and I will definitely think about coming back and spending some time here.  It was very peaceful, tropical, and the people were very proud of their heritage. The experience of this Island was awesome. And I am very grateful. Onto Sydney…..

Shipboard Meanderings……..Formal nights and so forth….

The biggest thing so far was going across the International Dateline…Yes, We lost Monday Feb. 20^th. It was the weirdest thing….first it was Sunday and then it was Tuesday. We lost Monday totally. And we are still going back an hour almost every night. Talk about time warp…Anyway… Welcome Fat Tuesday……and this ship had the most fantastic Mardi gras party. First of all, The President, and CEO came on board in Pago Pago. This was a huge thing. Everyone and everything was tip top and aboveboard. Then to celebrate Mardi gras, and Fat Tuesday….we had the most fantastic party, ever.  Maybe we were all ready for a party, after so many days at sea. I did not realize that the Pacific Ocean was so huge. They flew in wonderful jazz bands and people from New Orleans. 5 hrs of eating, dancing, drinking, and partying……this was tip top and memorable. I guess rum drinks do rule the seas. Everyone was moving a little slow the next day, was it really Tues. or Wed? No matter, changes in attitudes, changes in latitudes ….On another note, we have 18 formal nights on this world cruise. I have to make 5 cocktail dresses interchangeable. Yes, it’s do-able with fun accessories. I am not here to impress people.  I am just here to enjoy the moment, and without an attitude. Seriously, this is quite fun and challenging, and of course I love to take it out of ‘the box’ per say.   There are theme nights….Valentine’s Day, and various Balls to accommodate the itinerary…..The Blue and Ice Ball…Antarctica, Black and white Ball…and I am sure something for St. Paddys Day, Academy Awards, etc….anything to keep the masses happy. I could really care less about dressing up, but some people take this seriously. But it is kind of fun to play dress up on the sea days. On world cruises there are ‘pillow gifts’ that they give you on formal nights. Now, you could say that you have to pack them home but it is a nice touch. We have had nice tote bags, journals, first aid kits, etc. but tonight we received crystal votives from Tiffany and Co. I have never received a ‘blue box with a white ribbon’ Very good form. Looking forward to the next segment. We are halfway through. Maybe the best is yet to come, and we have had some amazing experiences. Sydney, The Great Barrier Reef, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Egypt, and India. They still seem unreal to me. I can’t wait……

Ushuaia and Punta Arenas

Feb. 1^st and 2^nd

 2 days at sea, and yes the Captain was right on the money. 20 ft seas and very stormy. But it was full bore ahead so we could steam out of this mess and get to Ushuaia and calmer waters as fast as we could. Bruce put a patch on so he was ok. I didn’t put anything on and I was ok. Just a teensy bit nauseous when the ship pitched so far forward you felt like you were on a roller coaster.  The rough seas were not the problem for me though…..Even after dousing myself with Purell, washing my hands umpteen times a day while belting out the Happy Birthday song twice. ( I did kick it up a little with the variation that includes monkeys and looking like them, and my favorite childhood ditty…the Comet/ Vomit song, which as it so happens,  sings  in just about the same amount of time. Maybe not very appropriate, but it gave me a giggle.) Yep, the Noro virus came to pay me a visit. They lift the code and then it comes back again. I was lucky though and had a mild version, even though it didn’t feel like it.  2 days pretty much confined to my room. Very sick though, I can see why it could be worse on a person who is fragile. At least Bruce hasn’t come down with it yet. It seems that in every port so far, the ship has been sending at least 3 people home because of sickness or falling and breaking bones due to the rough seas.  Back to South America………

Feb. 3^rd

Ushuaia, Argentina

Arguably the southernmost city in the world.  Some say that Puerto Williams, on the Chilean island of Navarino, is actually further south, but has far fewer inhabitants, and some consider it a town and not a city. We sailed to Ushuaia through the Beagle Channel. Calm seas at last. Weather is about 45 with overcast skies and very windy. Still too weak to do an excursion, so Bruce went without me. He toured through Tierra del Fuego National Park which covers a large part of lower Argentina and Chile. He described it like the Mt. Hood National Forest but with smaller trees, many lakes and glaciers, and lots of rabbits.  He also saw the southernmost gas station, store, and restaurant.  I am really sorry I missed all this…seriously…. oh well.  Very beautiful country from what I can see from my stateroom window.  Slowly on the mend. On to Punta Arenas.

Feb. 4^th and 5^th

Punta Arenas, Chile

Chile’s southernmost city.  Located on the Straits of Magellan, this area takes its name from this Portuguese explorer. With wool, petroleum, and the fishing industry, this is Chile’s most prosperous region.  Have to tender into this port and I was still not quite up to a rough tender ride into town and had to miss another excursion.  Bruce took a tour to the highest point outside of town…..’Hiking in the Andean club’ was the name of the tour. Now you know why I just couldn’t get up enough energy to manage this excursion. Basically they rode up to a ski lift and took that to the top of the mountain and walked down. It was windy, cold, and snowing. The trail was muddy and one elderly woman fell and broke her ankle. She didn’t realize it until she got back on the ship.  Ever being the Paramedic, Bruce helped her down. She was lucky it wasn’t a big break. She is in a foot brace and can stay on the ship. We were supposed to depart that afternoon, but we had our first change of plans due to bad weather. We have to stay docked in port overnight and leave the next afternoon. The Captain informed us that a huge storm was brewing off the south Pacific coast, and if we left on schedule, we would be sailing smack dab into 40-50 ft swells, and hurricane force winds. He didn’t use those words exactly, but used something like we would be in dire consequences if we sailed tonight.  So ‘Safe Harbor’ it is. The next morning I finally felt good enough to go into the city. It was cold and windy but it felt so good to get off the ship. I can officially say that I set foot in Chile. The city is very walkable, has a nice central square, and even a casino. It was Sunday so most of the shops were closed, but we did get some shopping done. Finally getting my stamina back. Made a phone call to Ryan and got through, tried to call Eric but it kept on getting dropped…sorry Eric.  Before we left port that afternoon, the Captain informed us that the next 3 days were going to be very rough and to clear your dresser tops and put away anything that might break. Here we go again. Set sail and realized that it was Super Bowl Sunday. The game was going to be shown on ship through a satellite feed at 9 pm. So, started watching and there was absolutely no commercials being shown. Now, what’s Super Bowl without commercials? That’s the best part. So to bed it was. This was going to be the last restful sleep for the next 3 nights. Sailed out the Strait of Magellan and into the Pacific Ocean.

Sea days…..

The next 3 days at sea were very grueling. 20-30 ft swells and sustained winds up to 65 mph. We had to keep sailing north to try and stay on the top edge of the storm, and always sailing into the wind to minimize the rocking. The Captain had to change course 3 times.  Bruce wore his seasick patch and I decided not to risk wearing one, or taking anything. I didn’t get sick at all or feel the least bit nauseous.  I can really claim that I am a sailor, or a stubborn old salt is more like it.  It did not bother me at all. Actually, after what I had just gone through, I didn’t want to put anything else in my system that might throw it out of whack again. They blocked off all of the outside access doors to the pool and decks, dishes were sliding off of tables, and people were falling like crazy.  Who knows what was crashing, creaking, and moaning. The ship was never silent.  Listening to the ship and storm noises late at night made me think of old sailor stories. I literally heard moaning, singing, talking, chanting. All sorts of different sounds. Now I understand how these yarns might have come about. It was terrific, and maybe a little fanciful. Or maybe I was just going a little stir crazy. After 3 days of not being able to go outside I was going nuts….I just wanted to feel fresh air on my face, just for a few minutes. At the end of the 3^rd day they opened up the decks and I was the first one out there. The forth day we woke up to sunny skies and calmer seas……on to Easter Island and a revised itinerary due to an extra day in Punta Arenas. We will not be sailing past Pitcairn Island or New Caledonia. These were not scheduled port stops anyway…just sail bys, so we were happy. We were afraid that we had lost Easter Island, and we still might if the seas are rough. Just like the Falklands, we have to tender in and if it’s rough it’s a no go.

Shipboard Meanderings…...

We have been at sea for a total of 35 days, and have sailed 10997 nautical miles. A nautical mile is equal to 1.15 statute miles. It will take us 19 days to cross the Pacific Ocean with only 3 port stops before we dock in Sydney on the 25^th of Feb. For me, this will be the true challenge of coping with sea days. So far we have kept pretty busy. As long as the weather is nice and I can go outside, there is no problem. They keep you pretty active on the ship, and they have a fairly good library.  Most everyone we talk to love sea days, but I am still hesitant.  I have no idea what is going on in the world. The TV channels are limited and the news we do get is not very current. Surfing the internet is not an option, unless you want to pay lots of money and then again it’s not very reliable. I am not complaining mind you, so far this trip has been amazing and I am so glad we decided to do this. It is like we are on a different planet on this planet, only with the median age being 72….heard that fact today. I guess after 30 some days I am feeling a teensy bit homesick.  I admire the staff and crew. They are very patient. As for me I bite my tongue and think of drinking rum punches in Tahiti. I try to stay positive.  Now I understand why they gave a daily portion of rum to the crew and passengers way back in the day.  The gossip and complaining are getting tiresome.  For example….there was a catfight in the laundry room the other day.  One woman took some clothes out of a dryer and certain that they were hers proceeded to fold and iron them. The rightful owner then came in and asked her why she was folding her clothes. Well the first woman said no, you’re wrong, these are my clothes and the fight ensued. I heard later that the first woman insisted on keeping a pair of pants. Hope they fit her. Now wouldn’t you think that you would know your own clothes?  Makes me leery of washing my undies and nighties and leaving them unattended.  The most exciting thing happened to Bruce and I the other day. We got stuck in the elevator for 10 minutes and had to call for help. Yes, that was the highlight of the week. I was not amused at the time and was thankful to get out. I have never been stuck in an elevator…ever… and I don’t really want to do so again. The elevators talk to you here. After hearing ‘6th floor, Veranda Deck’ like a broken record I was getting ready to go into panic mode. Bruce, being the firefighter that he is, calmly finished his ice cream cone, called the front office and told them of our predicament. What else have we got to do anyway…….The weather is getting warmer and we are headed to Easter island and the South pacific. New adventures await…just hope they are off ship.

Antarctica

January 30^th

Arrived at the northern part of the Antarctic Peninsula. Woke up early this morning….the sun rises at 4 am.. to overcast and slightly foggy weather. Sailed past Elephant Island at 7 am which is part of the chain called the South Shetland Islands. From there we head into Hope Bay and see Esperanza Station, which is An Argentinean post. Turn around in Hope Bay and sail toward Deception Island which is one of the southern Shetland Islands. By Mid-morning the fog had lifted, but the weather is so cold and windy. 28 degrees with about 56 kt winds. Which made the wind chill about 0. Ventured out on deck to take pictures and we could barely stand upright because of the wind. The wind and cold were so dry we both had chapped cheeks and one of Bruce’s nostrils froze.  Needless to say we did not stay out there very long. I have never experienced cold like that before.  So, of course Bruce had to do the ‘Penguin Plunge’ at 10 am. It was held in the aft deck outdoor pool. It was not heated but the steam was rising from it like it was heated. They even threw in a few buckets of ice to make it authentic. About 25 participated and they all jumped in…..and they did not want to get out. It was much colder out than in. Too funny.  Spent most of the afternoon inside on the Lido deck taking pictures of penguins, birds, seals, and some whales. There are tons of Icebergs all around the ship and the only colors out there are black, gray, white, and the occasional blue from the ice and the sky. Very impressive, but we haven’t seen anything yet. Wait until tomorrow, the experienced fellow passengers are saying…….

January 31^st and Feb. 1^st.

They were right. I am speechless, and not only with the weather. We woke up to sunny skies, no wind and mill pond seas. Wait, isn’t that a line from Titanic….just a little too close for comfort. Those icebergs are way too close.  Today we are headed south into the Gerlache Strait, Anvers Island, and Paradise Bay. We sailed all day.  Bruce and I stayed outdoors almost the whole day. The temp. started out at 32 but eventually rose to 55. Unheard of, some people said. It is very hard to describe what we saw and experienced today. I was very humbled and in awe of the past explorers that came here.  They all indeed have a claim to fame. Antarctica is not made for human habitation. One glance at the terrain, the endless ice, the dry air, the cold, but most of all the isolation, it is virtually uninhabitable for humans. There is just this indescribable feeling of total desolation, except for the wildlife. This is their home and it shows. We were chaperoned by penguins, seals, and the occasional whale. But they were in the sea; they are the true owners of this area. It really did feel like we were on different planet.   Antarctica is much like Alaska but much more dramatic. Icebergs are everywhere, even close to the ship, and the mountains, and cliffs of ice are breathtaking.  We were supposed to go through the Wilhelm Archipelago but it was clogged with ice. So that night we anchored in Flandres Bay. The next morning scientists from the Palmer Station were to come on board and give a presentation. Which they did. Very informative….and yes Global Warming is a fact. Gentoo penguins have never been seen this far south. Ever.  There is a rumor that this is going to be the last year that any big ships are going to be allowed to go to Antarctica due to the sensitive environment. These ships do belch a lot of smoke into the air.  Smoking, by humans, was not allowed on any of the outdoor decks. No butts allowed overboard here, although I would like to like to bend that rule a bit. Butt only on a human level, and that is another story.   This was one of the most amazing experiences that I have ever had. We did not touch Antarctica physically, but spiritually and mentally, we were there, and in the moment. So I consider that we were there ‘once removed’.

ON ANOTHER NOTE…….We are on our way back to Argentina and Chile. We have had 20 hrs of daylight and the nighttime is twilight. A little disconcerting when it comes time for bed.  The next 2 days we will be at sea. The Captain informed us of very rough water ahead so it’s ‘batten down the hatches’ time. 20 ft. swells and 50 mph winds. Hello Cape Horn……so far I have not had any trouble with seasickness at all. I love the rocking, but this might change.  Bruce put on some patches tonight. The ship is preparing for the worst. Everything is being stowed, taped up, or put on the floor. The barf bags are out in force, and the seasick pills are being distributed.  Today, the 1^st of Feb.  is our 37^th wedding anniversary and it will be well remembered. Cheers!