Antarctica

January 30^th

Arrived at the northern part of the Antarctic Peninsula. Woke up early this morning….the sun rises at 4 am.. to overcast and slightly foggy weather. Sailed past Elephant Island at 7 am which is part of the chain called the South Shetland Islands. From there we head into Hope Bay and see Esperanza Station, which is An Argentinean post. Turn around in Hope Bay and sail toward Deception Island which is one of the southern Shetland Islands. By Mid-morning the fog had lifted, but the weather is so cold and windy. 28 degrees with about 56 kt winds. Which made the wind chill about 0. Ventured out on deck to take pictures and we could barely stand upright because of the wind. The wind and cold were so dry we both had chapped cheeks and one of Bruce’s nostrils froze.  Needless to say we did not stay out there very long. I have never experienced cold like that before.  So, of course Bruce had to do the ‘Penguin Plunge’ at 10 am. It was held in the aft deck outdoor pool. It was not heated but the steam was rising from it like it was heated. They even threw in a few buckets of ice to make it authentic. About 25 participated and they all jumped in…..and they did not want to get out. It was much colder out than in. Too funny.  Spent most of the afternoon inside on the Lido deck taking pictures of penguins, birds, seals, and some whales. There are tons of Icebergs all around the ship and the only colors out there are black, gray, white, and the occasional blue from the ice and the sky. Very impressive, but we haven’t seen anything yet. Wait until tomorrow, the experienced fellow passengers are saying…….

January 31^st and Feb. 1^st.

They were right. I am speechless, and not only with the weather. We woke up to sunny skies, no wind and mill pond seas. Wait, isn’t that a line from Titanic….just a little too close for comfort. Those icebergs are way too close.  Today we are headed south into the Gerlache Strait, Anvers Island, and Paradise Bay. We sailed all day.  Bruce and I stayed outdoors almost the whole day. The temp. started out at 32 but eventually rose to 55. Unheard of, some people said. It is very hard to describe what we saw and experienced today. I was very humbled and in awe of the past explorers that came here.  They all indeed have a claim to fame. Antarctica is not made for human habitation. One glance at the terrain, the endless ice, the dry air, the cold, but most of all the isolation, it is virtually uninhabitable for humans. There is just this indescribable feeling of total desolation, except for the wildlife. This is their home and it shows. We were chaperoned by penguins, seals, and the occasional whale. But they were in the sea; they are the true owners of this area. It really did feel like we were on different planet.   Antarctica is much like Alaska but much more dramatic. Icebergs are everywhere, even close to the ship, and the mountains, and cliffs of ice are breathtaking.  We were supposed to go through the Wilhelm Archipelago but it was clogged with ice. So that night we anchored in Flandres Bay. The next morning scientists from the Palmer Station were to come on board and give a presentation. Which they did. Very informative….and yes Global Warming is a fact. Gentoo penguins have never been seen this far south. Ever.  There is a rumor that this is going to be the last year that any big ships are going to be allowed to go to Antarctica due to the sensitive environment. These ships do belch a lot of smoke into the air.  Smoking, by humans, was not allowed on any of the outdoor decks. No butts allowed overboard here, although I would like to like to bend that rule a bit. Butt only on a human level, and that is another story.   This was one of the most amazing experiences that I have ever had. We did not touch Antarctica physically, but spiritually and mentally, we were there, and in the moment. So I consider that we were there ‘once removed’.

ON ANOTHER NOTE…….We are on our way back to Argentina and Chile. We have had 20 hrs of daylight and the nighttime is twilight. A little disconcerting when it comes time for bed.  The next 2 days we will be at sea. The Captain informed us of very rough water ahead so it’s ‘batten down the hatches’ time. 20 ft. swells and 50 mph winds. Hello Cape Horn……so far I have not had any trouble with seasickness at all. I love the rocking, but this might change.  Bruce put on some patches tonight. The ship is preparing for the worst. Everything is being stowed, taped up, or put on the floor. The barf bags are out in force, and the seasick pills are being distributed.  Today, the 1^st of Feb.  is our 37^th wedding anniversary and it will be well remembered. Cheers!